Need help

[iamdub]

I just called the local dealer Carl Black and they have the lifters in stock. It takes 8 active $40 each and 8 non active $75 each. Thats better then $90 a piece!!!

It's still not ~$23.50/lifter. Does he HAVE to use parts from the dealer only? IMO, Summit is a very reputable supplier. I believe the part number for the AFM lifters is 12698946, and they're around $50 each.

Are you absolutely opposed to deleting AFM? All that's needed is a cam, non-AFM valley cover (much cheaper than that upgraded VLOM you need) and a tune, which is about $60 if you mail your PCM to here.

I'm still concerned why that one push rod is bent. Things had to have had an ill-timed jam for that to happen, and some internal damage could've resulted. You don't wanna find out about this after it's reassembled and running again.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

That's a lot of money for lifters. I'm running Chevrolet Performance LS7 lifters in my 2012 (AFM deleted) and they're quiet and reliable. Lots of guys run the Morel 7717 lifters as well. Both brands will likely run 300K miles without issues.

As @iamdub said, why not just delete the AFM system completely? You're doing 80% of the job already. The remaining 20% is a new cam and tune to turn off AFM in the ECM. Do that, and you'll never have another problem. The money you'll save by buying Morel 7717 or Chevrolet Performance LS7 lifters will just about pay for the cost of the cam.

At a minimum, I strongly recommend taking @swathdiver's suggestion and get a new VLOM (valley cover that has the control valves for the AFM system). As it was likely the cause of the failure to begin with. I don't recall - were you experiencing any signs of below normal oil pressure before the failure?

Oil pressure was perfect. Only a ticking was noticed after a pop was heard.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Well received truck back yesterday and its like brand new. He said there was no damage to the lower end, no metal shavings in the oil but does recommend replacing the oil pump. He also recommends changing the oil again in about 500 miles. One push rod was bent to sh@@. He did all new rockers, valves, lifters, plugs wires, head gasket kit exhaust manifold gaskets, new head bolts, new ex manifold bolts and all that was mentioned in thread. He also replaced starter that was giving me problems, replaced my stabilizer link bushings, stabilizer bar bushings, oil and coolant flush and recharged ac. $1,391 parts $1,900 labor. Grand total a wapping $3,291. Truck is for sale! LMAO! Thank you fellas for the guidance!!!!

 

[Geotrash]

Well received truck back yesterday and its like brand new. He said there was no damage to the lower end, no metal shavings in the oil but does recommend replacing the oil pump. He also recommends changing the oil again in about 500 miles. One push rod was bent to sh@@. He did all new rockers, valves, lifters, plugs wires, head gasket kit exhaust manifold gaskets, new head bolts, new ex manifold bolts and all that was mentioned in thread. He also replaced starter that was giving me problems, replaced my stabilizer link bushings, stabilizer bar bushings, oil and coolant flush and recharged ac. $1,391 parts $1,900 labor. Grand total a wapping $3,291. Truck is for sale! LMAO! Thank you fellas for the guidance!!!!

Thanks for following up and I'm glad it's back in your hands and on the road. Did he replace the VLOM?

 

[mattbta]

That pushrod looks like one I bent on a 3-2 miss-shift in my first LS1...back in 1998..lol. Those things were notorious for doing that with novice manual transmission drivers when under high rev conditions. Well, allowing the novice to do that.

 

[FasterBass]

That pushrod looks like one I bent on a 3-2 miss-shift in my first LS1...back in 1998..lol. Those things were notorious for doing that with novice manual transmission drivers when under high rev conditions. Well, allowing the novice to do that.

Direct experience here. I totaled my dad’s 1979 BMW 528i with a LS1/t56 combo. Thought i was hot shit getting on the highway and moneyshifted straight into a guardrail. To be fair, that was already a hairy car but I was wayyy too confident.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Thanks for following up and I'm glad it's back in your hands and on the road. Did he replace the VLOM?

I dont believe he did "Geo"

 

[Geotrash]

I dont believe he did "Geo"

Okay, that's unfortunate as that is a probable root cause of the problem, as noted in several responses to your posts. Fingers crossed for you.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Hi guys I'm back, Well the motor lasted a month and has been back to the mechanic 3 times since then. He fixed it two more time changing the same rod 3 times and we are dead once again. Now reading back into the post there was recommendations to do the DOD but it wasn't done. Yeah I regret it now knowing what the hell DOD is. When he worked on the truck the 3rd time he did replace the VLOM which worked for about 2,500 mile but it didn't last long. he recommended me to an LS specialist and he gave me the run down on getting the motor done the right way. Doing the DOD delete and changing the cam and everything else for about 8K. Im already in the whole 4,500. I was in the process of selling it when the ticking started during a test drive with a buyer and that f23k my day up. I would like to just replace the motor with something with low miles instead of messing with this damn motor. Can anyone suggest a reliable place I can get a used motor that I can just swap out. I cant spend 8k for a motor for this truck.

 

[FINALTOUCHFRI]

Any mechanic local members in Orlando?