Need some emotional security here

[SunlitComet]

I know I know this but my distributor rotor shaft rotation has about 2-4 degres of play including the shaft when full counterclockwise lifts up in height on the body about maybe 3/16". I Has live it's life right? I don't have my enhanced software yet but all I have left is the p0300 code. No cam retard-offset code. I can't check the retard until I get the software. And does anyone remember the ohm specs for testing resistance an the spark wires?

 

[longstand]

Sorry dude. i have no clue.. just stop by to Say. HEY buddy

 

[oldsalt]

Hey sunlit,
To the best of my knowledge there will be a little play. I believe that that is why when when checking adjusting the retard they want you to run the engine at 1000-1100 rpm. At that rpm there is constant pressure on the shaft. I'm just guessing here.
As for the "lifting", is that when you turn the rotor by hand? If so, I would say that is the shaft/rotor lifting because you are rotating it the opposite direction. It is riding up the gear on the cam.

Then again I could be just full of crap.

If this distributor has 235k on it I would probably replace it. I put over 150k on a Dorman once and it was still in good shape. Go figure.

 

[SunlitComet]

when turning in the ccw direction it rises up on the cam gear. Won't have software for cam retard until monday or tuesday. Could not find info on how off the cam gear. So if I am looking at things correctly the shaft and rotor are going to ride up when running. Correct? I am going to look and read over my cap and wires tonight. If I find no issues then I will probably pull it for inspection when I get the software.

 

[oldsalt]

I don't have one in front of me so I'm going off memory. If I'm not mistaken the rotor turns clockwise. When the shaft turns I would think that, because of the taper of the gears, it would tend to put downward pressure on the distributor shaft.
Isn't there a spring washer on that shaft just above the gear?

By the way, when you go to put the distributor back in it can be a real pain to get the oil pump shaft and the dist shaft lined up. If I had to turn the oil pump shaft to get everything lined up I used a long screwdriver and a boroscope camera to see what is what down there.
Put the camera down the distributor hole then snake your screwdriver down there and turn the shaft. It will save you hours of work and a lifetime of frustration.

 

[SunlitComet]

I see it as pushing gear up . I have not pulled the body yet only the cap and wires. cleaned off some crusty build-up on terminals inside. Wires show 2.5k ohms from longest to lower resistance from shortest. Seems about right. Wires state 7mm-silicone-mag-ferrite-made in usa but no name. Cap has brand "standard" stamped inside. no brass terminals date stamp of 07/06/07 on outside. No signs of carbon tracking but you know that kind of gray color look that it shows?, The whole cap kind of looks that color with large areas of difference around each terminal. So maybe I am seeing a different kind of burning. I am going to swing by a part store tomorrow I see if they will let me look at a new dist. for reference before I take the other one out and also see what the software tells me about misfire cylinder history. And I will stick my video scope down and look if I do remove it. Old rotor is still on but did see 2-3 spots of build-up on outer tip. I will probably replace the cap and rotor for sure with msd since I don't have a correlation error yet. not sure about wires yet as I am tight on money and there is a lot to fix. Just trying to get a smog cert for now. before moving on to please the lanlord here.

 

[oldsalt]

When it comes to these parts I stick religiously to delco when possible. Although that Dorman did last quite a while and the only reason I replaced it was I rebuilt the motor.

I know some here will differ with me I have never had luck with aftermarket plug wires. Stock delco wires are what I run. It is a stock motor.

I buy OEM parts from 2 places- 1) a mechanic next door to my shop, or 2) Rock Auto.
The mechanic gets them for me at his price. Doing price comparisons I have found that Rock auto prices are the same prices that mechanics pay. If I cant wait for the part I get them from my neighbor otherwise Rock.

Oh, don't forget, when it comes to plug wires Dielectric grease is your best friend.

 

[SunlitComet]

Got Acdelco cap, rotor and wire set for $98 direct from amazon. will probably do in the morning and see where I stand with the diag software readings. Inspected a distributor at a parts store and mine hardly any more play of any kind then a new one so if I zero in my cam retard it should no effects on timing. That would leave either a fuel spider or gasket problems but will do some more diags. I will shoot my thermogun at the exhaust ports for comparison while running too. Just glad to get the cheap, and in one case, unidentifiabled parts out of the ignition system. I wanted to go msd but at this point I just want the damn truck to drive and drive safely. Besides I want to dyno it while stock when it is back to normal and then again after each system upgrade for individual gain results.

 

[SunlitComet]

Cam retard recorded at 0.2 degrees. Not bad for original part. cap, rotor and wires made a noticable improvement but two of my injectors are still whacked electrically so more work to do. At least igntion system is back on top of its game.