New brake switch - Only 3rd light works now.

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ZRated

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So, did some searching and didn't quite find the issue.

1: Tahoe sat for 3 days, dead battery when I got back. Jumped it and stabilitrak etc lights came on.
2: Decided to replace the brake switch on brake pedal after looking things up as there was a code also. I figured this was the issue since cruise control always came off on a bump or somethimes I had to kick the pedal around a little with foot to get it to turn back on.
3: Couldn't get the Tahoe into gear after putting new switch in. I looked in reflection and noticed the brake lights weren't on. I pushed the pedal a little harder and the lights came on and I could get into gear.
4: Decided to take out switch and reinstall it with the pedal pulled all the way forward. This time I could hear the little "click" of a relay while under the dash when I tapped the pedal a little.
5: Now...Only the 3rd brake light works. Main tail-brake-lights do not work. Yet, the turn signals are fine and the reverse lights are fine.
6: Checked fuses and wedged a bar in to hold pedal down so I could wiggle wires and see if there is some kind of short. No luck. Checked bulbs and they are fine. Also, stabilitrak is still in error but no codes on brake switch now. For now, I could care less about the stabilitrak as there is another code for the IAT sensor...most likely need a MAF...

My priority is getting my brake lights working. I am stumped here as they were working fine just before I re-installed the brake switch. I can't find any shorts or bad fuses and I put my pack of new bulbs in just to be sure. Something happened under there or I am missing a fuse or relay somewhere.
 

OR VietVet

GMT800 2005 Tahoe Z71
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Sure would help to know the codes.

What brand switch? Numerous switch options, depending on RPO codes?
 
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ZRated

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Sure would help to know the codes.

What brand switch? Numerous switch options, depending on RPO codes?
Hey there,
Thanks for the reply. I believe I have resolved the issue after getting up at daylight and downloading schematics etc. Tested all the way through to the rear and found after pulling the bulbs, I was getting 13.6-14v to the sockets. I'm a little stumped as the bulbs I threw in were in an opened package I always kept in those little cup holders in the back for about 10yrs..but they were new 3057s. So, I don't know if both bulbs went bc 13.6-14v is a little high? Or if maybe these were some bad bulbs and maybe I kept them by accident...I am waiting for AutoZone to open up at 9am so I can go get more.

I am still wondering if those extra couple volts in the sockets are normal. I know my alternator was pushing out about 13.5v on the gauge when it was running as I spent a couple hours with all the lights on and using the battery up.
 
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ZRated

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Your voltage output, at the sockets, is fine.
Another question...the switch seems to swivel a tad bit and the videos show a bolt that holds it in. Mine did not have a bolt hole on the clip and the shaft does not have a threaded hole. everything is in right but I have to play around with the pedal after it sits to get it to engage the solenoid and let me get it into gear. It's the exact switch I took off...Not sure what I am missing here.
 

OR VietVet

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I asked for the brand of switch, not the design. Is it Genuine GM, AC Delco, Standard, Dorman.......?
 

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