New Guy here and love the site

[Phil S.]

Three months ago I picked up a 99 Tahoe 4 dr. It had 135k on it but the price was where I wanted it.

ABS light was on. Stopped by Midas and they said it probably needed a Control Module. That was what the code was saying. This was on a Saturday afternoon and they were closing. I said I would come back on Monday. In the mean time I did some searching around the truck and on the internet. First I found out someone removed the fuse for the ABS. I replaced the fuse and the light went out. WOW I am brilliant! Nah just moved the issue as now when I was at low speed like almost stopped the ABS would engage every time. Now to the web for possible solutions. It appeared that the cause of this was a bad wheel hub. I don't have time or tools anymore to do much around the truck so went back to Midas and they didnt think I was right LOL. Well they got it up in the air and sure enough drivers side front hub was bad. They replaced it and all better now.

I want to make note that the previous owner must have known a hack mechanic or was good at DIY workarounds.

SO here is a punch list of other things I need to do:

Antifreeze loss - after reading a ton of posts here I believe it is the intake manifold gasket. I am not seeing any fluid anywhere but its going somewhere. What is the best way to test this? I am not seeing anything on the oil cap or dipstick. I would rather not tear off the top of the motor if it isnt this. This is my daily driver.

Driver door rubs a bit I looked at the pins and bushings and they seem ok. But I did find that the Pivot Pin (not sure of true name?) it is a roller type pin on the back of the top hinge, Anyway the bottom of the pin has a roller on it and it is bent badly, the roller is almost pulled off the pin. Is this a Hinge replacement or can that pin be pounded out and replaced? I have never replaced a hinge is it difficult?

Steering position sensor? It is on the steering shaft near the inside firewall. I get a surging type feeling if I turn the wheel completely in one direction or the other. Kind of like the tires are on ice and then dry pavement then ice etc. Steering is a bit loose so I will do this first before getting under the truck and doing pitman and etc. If needed.

Key Fob that I received with the truck didn't work and wont program even with new battery so I will order a new one. The back cover was off so it was in two pieces when I got it. I suspect that there also may be an after market device on the truck as I get the relay clicking noise near the fuse panel on any initial start. I will investigate when I have my head under the dash after doing the steering sensor.

4wd switch - Doesnt stay lit I will change it as I plan on doing blue Led interior upgrade.

Rear AC - Ok here comes the hack job again. It is obviously been bad because the lines to it are cut in the engine compartment and then welded shut so front air works but not rear. Grrr Now I will replace the lines going back and the evap in the rear then have the system drained so I can replace the dual line in the engine compartment and reconnect to see if that solves the issue.

O2 sensor CEL came on. Autozone pulled the code it was like 140 or something it is the sensor on the drivers side after the cats

1 week after I got the truck a chick swerved in her lane and the passenger mirrior on her Jeep hit my drivers mirror swing it forward. We pulled over I realigned both her mirror and mine and called it good. Wrong my mirror is busted up inside and wont stay in place and motor runs but mirror doesnt move. Going with Ebay mirrors to replace both so they match. I looked and they are not heated so going with this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-GMC-Yukon-Suburban-Truck-Tahoe-Power-Mirror-Pair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1999Q7cModelQ3aTahoeQQhashZitem1e5f85d377QQitemZ130451624823QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1946wt_1165

Any reason I shouldn't use this as a direct replacement?

Finally replacing headlights with TYC and upgrading to DDM HID. Will Slim Ballast setup be OK? Going to find LED Bumper lights and side markers but havent decided yet. Unsure about taillights but license plate lights has 1 burned out so going LED with those.

All I can think of at this time LOL finally right? Any feedback would be appreciated. I have spent the entire weekend reading this forum and seeking solutions.

 

[longstand]

Welcome.. I love this Site to. and Youjizz.com..

 

[gulleyman]

Steering position sensor? ... I will do this first before getting under the truck and doing pitman and etc. If needed.

Common issue with our trucks, quick cheap fix too, I believe the part is less than $50 at RockAuto.com

Going with Ebay mirrors to replace both so they match. I looked and they are not heated so going with this

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-GMC-Yukon-Suburban-Truck-Tahoe-Power-Mirror-Pair-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZYearQ3a1999Q7cModelQ3aTahoeQQhashZitem1e5f85d377QQitemZ130451624823QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_1946wt_1165

Any reason I shouldn't use this as a direct replacement?

Unless you can find some heated ones at the junker

Finally replacing headlights with TYC and upgrading to DDM HID. Will Slim Ballast setup be OK?

You should be good with the larger, less expensive ballasts, lots of space back there.

 

[SunlitComet]

cooling system pressure tester to presurize system for testing.

should be able to get pins bushing and door position indentation cam hardware from dealer with out replacing hinge.

New STEERING WHEEL POSITION SENSOR should fix that.

the rear a/c sytem or lines might have been leaiking before so use some nitrogen and a/c fluch to clean out, check for restrictions and and leaks.

mirror should be fine.
P0140 o2 code is common. From my other oost:

Default
your pipe may cross over by the time it reach the converter so follow your pipe but yes bank-1 sensor-2 would be driver side cylinder bank after the converter aka post converter.

The bosch unit should be part # 13474 about $70.

Just be prepared for a stuck sensor it happens on exhaust parts. if you can't get it off get ready to heat and vise grip the bugger. or let a muffller shop do it for you and if possible clean out the bung threads.

I think you will be find afterwards just disconnect your battery for a minute to wipe the code if you don't have a scanner to do so(sounds like you do) or it will take a while before your computer recognizes the problem fixed. may have to reprogram radio settings etc...

---------- Post added at 10:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:31 PM ----------

REMOVAL PROCEDURE

TOOLS REQUIRED
Oxygen Sensor Wrench

NOTE: Do not remove this pigtail from either the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) or the oxygen sensor (O2S). Removing the pigtail or the connector will affect sensor operation.

Handle the oxygen sensor carefully. Do not drop the HO2S. Keep the in-line electrical connector and the louvered end free of grease, dirt, or other contaminants. Do not use cleaning solvents of any type.

Do not repair the wiring, connector or terminals. Replace the oxygen sensor if the pigtail wiring, connector, or terminal is damaged.

This external clean air reference is obtained by way of the oxygen sensor signal and heater wires. Any attempt to repair the wires, connectors, or terminals could result in the obstruction of the air reference and degraded sensor performance.

The following guidelines should be used when servicing the heated oxygen sensor:

* Do not apply contact cleaner or other materials to the sensor or vehicle harness connectors. These materials may get into the sensor causing poor performance.
* Do not damage the sensor pigtail and harness wires in such a way that the wires inside are exposed. This could provide a path for foreign materials to enter the sensor and cause performance problems.
* Ensure the sensor or vehicle lead wires should not be bent sharply or kinked. Sharp bends or kinks could block the reference air path through the lead wire.
* Do not remove or defeat the oxygen sensor ground wire (where applicable). Vehicles that utilize the ground wired sensor may rely on this ground as the only ground contact to the sensor. Removal of the ground wire will cause poor engine performance.
* Ensure that the peripheral seal remains intact on the vehicle harness connector in order to prevent damage due to water intrusion. The engine harness may be repaired using Packard's Crimp and Splice Seals Terminal Repair Kit. Under no circumstances should repairs be soldered since this could result in the air reference being obstructed.

The Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) may be difficult to remove when the engine temperature is below 48°C (120°F) . Excessive force may damage the threads in the exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe.

CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.



1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Raise the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information.
3. Remove the HO2S sensor connector heat shield if necessary.
4. Remove the HO2S sensor harness connector.



5. Carefully remove the heated oxygen sensor using an Oxygen Sensor Wrench.

INSTALLATION PROCEDURE

IMPORTANT: A special anti-seize compound is used on the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) threads. The compound consists of liquid graphite and glass beads. The graphite tends to burn away, but the glass beads remain, making the sensor easier to remove. New, or service replacement sensors already have the compound applied to the threads. If the sensor is removed from an engine and if for any reason it is to be reinstalled, the threads must have anti-seize compound applied before the reinstallation.



1. Coat the threads of the oxygen sensor with anti-seize compound GM P/N 5613695 or the equivalent if necessary. NOTE: Refer to Component Tightening Notice in Cautions and Notices.
2. Install the sensor using an Oxygen Sensor Wrench. Tighten Tighten the sensor to 41 N.m (30 lb ft) .



3. Install the HO2S sensor harness connector.
4. Install the HO2S sensor connector heat shield if necessary.
5. Lower the vehicle.
6. Connect the negative battery cable.

 

[Phil S.]

while trying to order the Steering sensor from Rock Auto the have two part numbers and about $7 difference between them.

DORMAN Part # 905510 {#26064468} 22.79

DORMAN Part # 31025 {#26064468} Works in conjunction with speed sensitive steering and anti-theft electronics. 29.79

I am unsure if I have any anti-theft electronics? The picture of the part looks the same. Any suggestions?

 

[TeaDubya2011]

you prolly do..if i'm not mistaken chevy went to that in the later 90's..example, if you take your radio out, you'll have to call a number to get a code..quite aggravting but hell what do i know

 

[07Burb]

Driver door rubs a bit I looked at the pins and bushings and they seem ok. But I did find that the Pivot Pin (not sure of true name?) it is a roller type pin on the back of the top hinge, Anyway the bottom of the pin has a roller on it and it is bent badly, the roller is almost pulled off the pin. Is this a Hinge replacement or can that pin be pounded out and replaced? I have never replaced a hinge is it difficult?

first off, welcome to the site. I'm a newbie here as well

Anywho, not sure if anyone has answered your question on this yet but I had this same thing happen on a 99 Denali that I had. You can replace that pin and can get it from any auto parts store with the Help! line of products. What I did, though, was I just got that pin out of there and never put a new one in. The only thing that pin does is allow the roller to stop at 2 different spots so that you can stand there with the door open and not have it shut on you. It's just a PITA to put the pin back in and I didn't want to mess with it so I left it out and went on my marry way

 

[Phil S.]

Spoke with Dorman today on the steering sensor question. It is the same part. so I am getting the less expensive one.

 

[Phil S.]

update

Had valve cover and intake gaskets replaced.

Oil change, changed thermostat and coolant flush and refill
Replaced power steering pump the shaft was rusted and failing, I haven't seen that before?

Replaced steering sensor, By the way having really long fingers that bend multiple directions would have helped! getting to the connector wasn't much fun!

Ran out of day light so I couldn't do the mirrors like I wanted BAH! That will be tomorrow. I wish I had a garage.
Driver door pins will be in the next few days when my buddy is available to hold the door.

Not sure if I am doing exterior lights next or interior lights next. Also getting tires soon as I am unhappy with whats on there.

Also have to figure out if I am replacing stock radio or sending it out to get the lights on it fixed. Any thoughts?