New motor and no start issue

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willxfs

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I have a 1998 2 Door Tahoe with 4wd. It has 268k on the clock. The old 350 was getting tired and I pulled the trigger on having my block rebuilt into a 383 stroker. Just finished installation and when I go to start, the motor runs for about a half second (revs up to about 1000 rpm) and instantly dies. I'm seeing the security light stay on on the dash board. Never noticed that light before. I also had the computer flashed for the 383 by Harris Performance at TBIchips.com. All new AC delco plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor were installed. The throttle body was ported as well by Potz. New updated spider fuel injection was installed a couple of years ago and I reused the MPFI injectors. Also a new delphi fuel pump was installed about a year ago. I recall reading about computer relearn procedures but dont know a thing about it or if it even applies in my situation. Any insight would be great! Thanks!
 

tlang

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High rev normally indicates a large vacuum leak. That is a ton of work to take into consideration though. Do you have a scan tool to see what you MAF is doing?
 
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willxfs

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No scan tool. Been thinking of getting one though. I know I'll need a good one to set the cam retard offset once the thing is up and running. I'm pretty sure the engine light was on as well as the check gauges light.
 

tlang

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Yeah with something like this, looking at data from a scan tool could really go a long way.

1) yes a start and die can be a security issue especially if the light is doing something abnormal.
2) Just asking but you do have the air piping to the MAF on right? I have gone to start them a few times for testing and have left it off.
3) Scan tools vary drastically but youll want something that will at least show live data. One that has bidirectional controls (one you can actually reprogram with) can be pretty spendy.
 
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willxfs

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Going to check on the vacuum hoses and connections now. Will let you know what I find out.
 
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willxfs

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So I checked all the vacuum hoses I could see and everything looked good. Went to start the truck after going thru a couple of cycles of letting the key stay in the on position for thirty seconds or so without starting the truck. Security light would turn off after a few seconds. Truck started right up and ran pretty good. I have a check engine light on which I'm fairly sure is at least related to the cam offset retard (Hopefully nothing else). Starter is weak/slow to start the engine which could be a weak battery, although I charged it for five hours today (voltage read 12.7 before starting truck). Battery is only a year old and hasn't been discharged extremely low. Maybe I need a heavy duty starter for the new stroker motor. Will have to research that. I didn't drive the truck yet as the cable shift linkage/connection to the transmission kept popping of the little ball socket on the transmission lever (for lack of the proper term). Will have to figure out how to lock it on the ball socket or get a new connector. All in all, i'm happy its running!
 

SunlitComet

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you may have just needed the flashed pcm to learn some stuff over again. like sensor data, security settings, resetting the iac valve and such. not concerned with high rpm if it stays there and slowly go down as engine runs.
 

tlang

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So I checked all the vacuum hoses I could see and everything looked good. Went to start the truck after going thru a couple of cycles of letting the key stay in the on position for thirty seconds or so without starting the truck. Security light would turn off after a few seconds. Truck started right up and ran pretty good. I have a check engine light on which I'm fairly sure is at least related to the cam offset retard (Hopefully nothing else). Starter is weak/slow to start the engine which could be a weak battery, although I charged it for five hours today (voltage read 12.7 before starting truck). Battery is only a year old and hasn't been discharged extremely low. Maybe I need a heavy duty starter for the new stroker motor. Will have to research that. I didn't drive the truck yet as the cable shift linkage/connection to the transmission kept popping of the little ball socket on the transmission lever (for lack of the proper term). Will have to figure out how to lock it on the ball socket or get a new connector. All in all, i'm happy its running!

Nice man Im glad she is running! I would guess your compression is a bit higher so maybe a bit tougher to turn over. I would have the amperage on the battery checked. Did you charge it with a trickle charger? I have found it better to hit it with hugh amperage for about a half hour at first then slow charge it. Kinda gets the juices going you could say.
 

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