New noise. Please help.

[iboughtatahoe23]

Either way I can't hear it from here. LOL

Since you have it narrowed down, you should be able to remove the belt and spin both by hand. The compressor pulley should spin freely by hand with the engine off.

How hard is that to take off?

 

[B-train]

If you have the spring loaded tensioner, it's 1 minute. If it's the stretch to fit, then you'll probably have to cut the belt and put a new one on with the special tool. The tool may work to take it off, but I've never tried it.

If it's original, then it's probably time anyways. Plus, leaving the AC compressor out of the loop for a few days isn't a big deal.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

If you have the spring loaded tensioner, it's 1 minute. If it's the stretch to fit, then you'll probably have to cut the belt and put a new one on with the special tool. The tool may work to take it off, but I've never tried it.

If it's original, then it's probably time anyways. Plus, leaving the AC compressor out of the loop for a few days isn't a big deal.

Thank god mine is spring loaded

 

[houstontaylor]

I had a whistling sound that varied with RPM and only made noise at specific frequencies and only in pretty cold temps. It turned out to be the air conditioning compressor belt tensioner pulley. But I only determined that after replacing almost everything else first. A way to check this would be ro take off the serpentine belt and see if the noise is still there when conditions are right. Also, putting the stethoscope on the tensioner housing from below confirmed it. Getting the right rpm was tough. The bad news is that the new one does the same thing so it must be a design or manufacturing defect. I may look into greasing the pulley or replacing that pulley with another idler pulley of some sort.

 

[BigDogYJ]

Thank god mine is spring loaded

@OP
‘just to clarify and be sure your on the same page…
‘it sounds like you changed the idler (next to the alternator) on the primary serpentine belt (crank pulley, water pump, alternator, power steering, etc). there is also a tensioner for that belt usually opposite of the alternator (near top of motor towards passenger side).

In addition there is a separate a/c belt that connects the compressor to the crank pulley. There is another tensioner with its own idler pulley for this a/c belt. The tensioner is small and should be able to use a 3/8 square drive ratchet to release the tension and remove this belt. Once done you can spin both the AC compressor pulley and idler pulley to check for smoothness. As mentioned this can be left off while driving without any concern for damage as it’s only there for the a/c compressor (of course a/c won’t work). Btw it’s usually this small tensioner at the bottom of the motor between the crank pulley and AC compressor.

as I was reading this thread it seemed there was some details missing so just wanted to clarify. And yes as @OR VietVet mentioned, when one piece of the puzzle goes, changet it all. They are all the same age and usually fail around the same time. Change both belts both tensioners and the idler pulley and be done with it. Personally I change all of this every 100k miles so I don’t have to worry about one of them failing on me.

Good luck.

 

[iboughtatahoe23]

Noise still there. Probably will leave it unless it gets worse. Than I’ll get at it when it warms up in a few months.