New ro me 97 tahoe LT

[liquify33]

Glad to hear it is going well so far!
Your blower issue could be the controller with the knobs or the motor itself. There’s a rubber cover over it in the passenger footwell. With the knobs cranked a multimeter should show some voltage (~12v I’d guess) between the 2 wires. That should point you in the general direction.

Personally I’d swap out the coolant at your leisure. Dexcool is fine but I drain/fill every 2 years in our GMs. In case you didn’t know, don’t mix Dexcool and green. Dexcool has a shelf life and if it’s been sitting for years, it’s expired though not necessarily immediately urgent.


As you fix the other stuff you can do transmission fluid/filter and differential(s) and transfer case if it’s 4wd. It’s always wise to make sure you can open the fill bolts before removing the drain bolts on the front diff and transfer case.

If you’re on speaking terms with the PO ask if the intake manifold gasket and/or spider (Fuel injector) upgrade has been done and any transmission service history.

As for as aftermarket wiring, my suggestion to leave it be was to avoid creating new problems. I’ve had friends pull old alarms out and introduce weird electrical gremlins, but I hope you can get remote start to work — it’s priceless in extreme climates.

 

[Tonyrodz]

Thanks too all for the reply's. Yesterday i was able to drop the tank and had to replace fuel pump. Once in the truck started right up no hesitation. I let it sit in idle in my driveway for about two hours before i started to shift and rev the engine. This thing is a beast i took it for a short ride around a few blocks no over heating, shift flawlessly and motor is quiet no ticks. I'm glad i won this gamble. LOL, Any how i did notice the air blower will not come on or the wipers. As far as the wipers i believe its the old soldering issue which i will take a look at today, my Yukon XL had a similar issue. As far as the blower were do i start? i checked the fuses which are OK IDK how to check relays, but i'm assuming worse case the blower or blower control, since the PO said it worked on low only after he switched it back and forth several times to get it to turn on. Also notice the brakes are shot will stop after hammering the pedal multiple times. I see a leak from the brake line looks like it splits ate the rear by the differential this will need to be address.

(Liquify33)==Thanks for the input as far as the coolant its still the DEX and i had a bottle already so i topped off the radiator and reserve. All lights and electrical seem fine at this point there is a Viper remote start installed PO told me he had installed and gave me the fob as well, but doesn't seem to work right now. I'm not to good with alarm systems so once i get this thing rolling mechanically good i will look into the non essential things. I will say the TV and VCR work perfectly and the radio in the back works as well.

Pretty neat truck, I will post some more pics of the rear of the truck, maybe someone can shed some light on why this was added or was this like a special order truck customized to the 1st Owner. Hell hing even has rear AC/ heat.

Try to pair the fob with your remote. Happens with mine all the time(unpairs itself).

 

[Marbor]

Glad to hear it is going well so far!
Your blower issue could be the controller with the knobs or the motor itself. There’s a rubber cover over it in the passenger footwell. With the knobs cranked a multimeter should show some voltage (~12v I’d guess) between the 2 wires. That should point you in the general direction.

Personally I’d swap out the coolant at your leisure. Dexcool is fine but I drain/fill every 2 years in our GMs. In case you didn’t know, don’t mix Dexcool and green. Dexcool has a shelf life and if it’s been sitting for years, it’s expired though not necessarily immediately urgent.


As you fix the other stuff you can do transmission fluid/filter and differential(s) and transfer case if it’s 4wd. It’s always wise to make sure you can open the fill bolts before removing the drain bolts on the front diff and transfer case.

If you’re on speaking terms with the PO ask if the intake manifold gasket and/or spider (Fuel injector) upgrade has been done and any transmission service history.

As for as aftermarket wiring, my suggestion to leave it be was to avoid creating new problems. I’ve had friends pull old alarms out and introduce weird electrical gremlins, but I hope you can get remote start to work — it’s priceless in extreme climates.

Thanks, I totally agree on the remote start being priceless in extreme weather especially me in Chicago. That will get done eventually.

Glad to hear it is going well so far!
Your blower issue could be the controller with the knobs or the motor itself. There’s a rubber cover over it in the passenger footwell. With the knobs cranked a multimeter should show some voltage (~12v I’d guess) between the 2 wires. That should point you in the general direction.

Personally I’d swap out the coolant at your leisure. Dexcool is fine but I drain/fill every 2 years in our GMs. In case you didn’t know, don’t mix Dexcool and green. Dexcool has a shelf life and if it’s been sitting for years, it’s expired though not necessarily immediately urgent.


As you fix the other stuff you can do transmission fluid/filter and differential(s) and transfer case if it’s 4wd. It’s always wise to make sure you can open the fill bolts before removing the drain bolts on the front diff and transfer case.

If you’re on speaking terms with the PO ask if the intake manifold gasket and/or spider (Fuel injector) upgrade has been done and any transmission service history.

As for as aftermarket wiring, my suggestion to leave it be was to avoid creating new problems. I’ve had friends pull old alarms out and introduce weird electrical gremlins, but I hope you can get remote start to work — it’s priceless in extreme climates.

I agree remote start is priceless. I will flush the fluid once I get her up and running as a daily driver. And start to tackle the drive train fluids. As far as the PO I belive he was pretty upfront with the history. He did say he purchased an extended warranty for trans and motor when he purchased the vehicle and trans was replaced at around 84k miles by the dealer I plan on calling chevy one day ro see if they can find any records as the PO said the paperwork was faded to shit and simply tossed because it was unreadable. As far as the spider upgrafe I will try and ask if he replies to my msg. He did ask for updates on when It is up and running he really loved this truck and hated to see it go.

 

[Marbor]

Try to pair the fob with your remote. Happens with mine all the time(unpairs itself).

I miss spoke on my post I only have the remote and 2 keys no fob. Any other suggestions?

 

[Tonyrodz]

I miss spoke on my post I only have the remote and 2 keys no fob. Any other suggestions?

You don't have the gm fob? You could always buy those from ebay.

 

[Marbor]

Thanks for the link tonyrodz, As i suspected the wiper chip needed to be re soilder. it had a few crack at the plug in part, now it works as it should. Only issue is the driver wiper arm piece that connects to the actual wiper arm is broken. I will need to do a junk yard run.

Now any help would be fantastic. I was messing with the blower to see if i can get that started, but no luck.
Here's whats happening, when i turn the fan switch on nothing in 1-3, but when i put it into 4=HIGH i hear and felt the relay under the passenger dash flick like its trying to start. Would that mean a new blower or another issue?

 

[PG01]

Thanks for the link tonyrodz, As i suspected the wiper chip needed to be re soilder. it had a few crack at the plug in part, now it works as it should. Only issue is the driver wiper arm piece that connects to the actual wiper arm is broken. I will need to do a junk yard run.

Now any help would be fantastic. I was messing with the blower to see if i can get that started, but no luck.
Here's whats happening, when i turn the fan switch on nothing in 1-3, but when i put it into 4=HIGH i hear and felt the relay under the passenger dash flick like its trying to start. Would that mean a new blower or another issue?

actually probably the resistor...9x out of 10 which is right near the blower motor... they go bad. i have heard of the dash switch going out but easier and cheapest is the resistor first.

 

[PG01]

 

[Marbor]

actually probably the resistor...9x out of 10 which is right near the blower motor... they go bad. i have heard of the dash switch going out but easier and cheapest is the resistor first.

Thanks I will check it out and update

 

[Marbor]

Good day too all

As an update the truck is running fine, looks like I will be fixing more little stuff. I had to replace the blower then the resignation then the actual control from the dash seems 5he whole system was shot. Everything is working as should be but no AC. I did a vac on it yesterday and seems there's a big leak the needle didn't even move down a bit.
So I dumped a small amount of UV as soon as it entered the port it sprayed out the little tube just behind the low service port. Now once I change that part out and can pray there's no other leaks. Going to change the little can as well after I leak test the system to see if it holds.

Also, maybe someone would know, but when changing the main ac control unit there was a little wire connected to either the ac switch or the recirculation switch. I don't know what this was for seemed to be an add on for something.
Any ideas?