New shocks

[Costal_Cat]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

 

[adventurenali92]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

I tow a ton. So I considered doing the passive non air shocks for the lower price point. But I wanted the auto level function for towing. So that’s why I kept air ride. The arnott replacement air shocks are quite good. I’ve been thoroughly happy with them.

 

[TahoeLTZ2007]

I got the passive Arnott's via Rock Auto for $125 each on a sale in Nov. Added a Dorman Compressor and did it in my driveway in about 45 mins. They also came with a resistor so the dashboard light did not kick on.

2 Shocks = $250 before rebates
1 Compressor = $160

Only pain in the rear is the passenger side top bolt you have to navigate the two AC lines and the ABS connection but other than that I used a creeper and did not even jack up the truck..... I tow a lot and have been really happy with this setup, especially at this price point.

Just wondering,maybe I missed something,
the passive shocks are not air shocks,why did you need a new compressor?

 

[Costal_Cat]

Just wondering,maybe I missed something,
the passive shocks are not air shocks,why did you need a new compressor?

It can be confusing. So much like @adventurenali92 I wanted the passive vs electronic shock but wanted to still use the auto leveling. Given that Arnott's has a passive shock with the airbags so you basically get the best of both worlds. The system consists of two components or sub systems....

1. Electrically dampened shock. This has nothing to do with leveling, it is a shock that uses electrical signals to get stiffer vs a normal passive shock. This is true for the front struts and the rear shocks.

2. Automatic Level control: This uses the sensors to determine if the rear should some up or down. Based on that the compressor is fired up until the sensor is back at an appropriate angel or a valve is opened to release air. The airbags just so happen to be built into the shocks.

So when you make the decision to replace the OEM system you should first determine if you want to maintain the automatic level control. If so you need shocks with the air bladder no matter if they are electronic or passive dampening.

If you go passive you want resistors for the shock sensors so that you do not get a warning on your dash no matter if you keep the ALC or not...

Hope that helps I had to get my head wrapped around it all when I was swapping out...

 

[adventurenali92]

It can be confusing. So much like @adventurenali92 I wanted the passive vs electronic shock but wanted to still use the auto leveling. Given that Arnott's has a passive shock with the airbags so you basically get the best of both worlds. The system consists of two components or sub systems....

1. Electrically dampened shock. This has nothing to do with leveling, it is a shock that uses electrical signals to get stiffer vs a normal passive shock. This is true for the front struts and the rear shocks.

2. Automatic Level control: This uses the sensors to determine if the rear should some up or down. Based on that the compressor is fired up until the sensor is back at an appropriate angel or a valve is opened to release air. The airbags just so happen to be built into the shocks.

So when you make the decision to replace the OEM system you should first determine if you want to maintain the automatic level control. If so you need shocks with the air bladder no matter if they are electronic or passive dampening.

If you go passive you want resistors for the shock sensors so that you do not get a warning on your dash no matter if you keep the ALC or not...

Hope that helps I had to get my head wrapped around it all when I was swapping out...

Great explanation! I forgot about the passive versus dampened shocks.

 

[itsbo1313]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

 

[Costal_Cat]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

Depends, if this is a costing exercise then Bilstein and some resistors to eliminate the dash warning are a great option. I will note that you stated the ride is not harsh but you have no airbags so the electronic shocks seem to be working for dampening right now. The Bilstein might prove to be a little firmer than what you have with stock. Remember the Denali was built for comfort not towing per say so the system is designed more for comfort than say a 2500

Hope that helps

 

[adventurenali92]

I'm debating the Arnott passive or Bilstein 5100. I rarely tow, and when I do it's a U-haul trailer or a pontoon boat so I don't think I'll need to retain the auto leveling.

How heavy of a pontoon?

 

[itsbo1313]

How heavy of a pontoon?

2500lbs

 

[adventurenali92]

2500lbs

Ah ok that’s not terribly heavy. I’d still want the auto level function for towing even with that weight. But that’s just my two cents...... lol