New speakers - have a few questions

[Splorg]

Isn't mine in the dash behind the glovebox? It's a non Bose. Since I know it still "works" using the factory audio amp and wires saves me quite a bit of of time and $, I'm just unsure if it will drive something small like a 2ohm load single coil sub. I was going to hook something up and cross my fingers.

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[Splorg]

Okay, a friend of mine gave me an Audiobahn aw1506t 15" 4ohm DVC sub. This changes the calculus of the whole thing.

My question is this - if I build/buy a box for this monster and buy an amplifier, can I run the amp off the signal from the factory subs wiring, or do I need to go back up to the head unit harness and use a line level converter there to get unamplified signal? I've helped guys put stereo gear in cars, and running wire isn't one of my stronger skills, so if it's reasonable to avoid it when possible I'd prefer it.

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[adriver]

That subwoofer is 1300w rated RMS. When you're running, that's rated at 90 amp draw, and that's when its playing at normal volume. If you crank it up, and hit it hard, its going to pull ~180 amps. To run that sub, you will need to: upgrade your alternator ($200-$600), possibly battery ($200-$300), you will need new power and ground wire ($100), (+other misc stuff to make it work (fuse holder, terminals ~$100+). That sub will drown out your sony speakers that you're running off head unit power. Its not a good fit for what you have. I would either try to sell or trade it for something smaller (hopefully already in a box, or with an amp).

 

[Splorg]

Oh, good Lord - thank you.

I had been looking as a fallback at a prebuilt, prepowered unit either from Fosgate, Kicker or Pioneer. I hate to spend the money (more accurately I don't mind, and I have it to spend, my wife and I just don't agree on me spending it on this particular vehicle - I don't think she likes it) but it would be nice to just run a power wire and a remote wire and be done with it.

That being said, I'm still a little confused as to just replacing the factory sub with an 8" shallow mount sub. If I go that route, do k need an additional amplifier or will the stock hardware drive it, if I choose the correct one? There are way too many listed on Amazon for me to shoot in the dark.

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[adriver]

You're going to need an amp for every sub you could get. Some come with the amp and sub built in (and box built in). They are small, and you just unplug them. They are about the size of a ….. big tv dinner (for one).

IMO, That 8" shallow sub is probably the one thing you don't want to do. The 8" shallow mount can transfer over to another vehicle, but if you buy it to fit in that small space, why would you? There's a very slim chance it would be a good fit in something else. If you don't mind losing the space, I would look for a decent deal on a full size sub. Probably a 10" or 12", I would probably look for a good package deal on craigslist for something that's used, good price, and lower wattage, so you might be able to get away with doing some small electrical upgrade, (and maybe find a seller who will be willing to help you install it). That way, you can always just take it right out of this, and use it in another vehicle. Then you can always say its not really money spent on the vehicle, its money spent for a stereo, that you can reuse in something else.

Those subs with the internal amps, and there own box, might be a good buy. Just like something much bigger you just unplug them and take them with you if you want. Those should be low wattage enough that you should be good with a 160 amp alt (that you can get at any auto parts store, or maybe used) if you don't already have it. If you can keep the wattage low enough, and something like that, you upgrade the alternator, and just run your big 3, and your amp's power, ground, and remote wire.

 

[BG1988]

sony is not too bad some of the older sony sub-woofers are going for a pretty penny I had one of the metal dust caps sold it for 40$ (bought for 85$) now someone is asking 400$ for a used pair... sucks

damn ES series (premium series)
the ring was thick rubber built to last quality product(unlike most of todays junk that only last a year and you have to throw it away)


they hit hard even with a 50 watt walmart amp i used... i used it for watching movies inside house... my neighbors hate me

I use a Z5500 Sub woofer ( modded to use as a sub only) those are freaking loud...


dont bag on that walmart amp that Amp lasted for 17 years (tell my grandpa passed away ) then my stupid uncle tossed it in the trash.. i'm sure it had another 20 years left

It had low impedance speakers connected 3 ohm even though it was rated for 8 ohm.

 

[Splorg]

So what I'm going to have to look for in an all in one unit or an amplifier if I go that route is a set of speaker level inputs if I don't want to run new signal wires, right?

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[Jeff Groves]

Being a work truck and you have a budget 'issue'? I'd just replace the speaker in the Sub Woofer box.
Crutchfield has some nice prices and the advisers you can chat with will help you.

 

[Splorg]

My understanding was if I directly replace the factory sub with something not the ludicrously expensive (for a Delco paper cone speaker) factory replacement it won't work without an additional amplifier - is that the case?

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[Sam Harris]

My understanding was if I directly replace the factory sub with something not the ludicrously expensive (for a Delco paper cone speaker) factory replacement it won't work without an additional amplifier - is that the case?

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It will work. Problem is just getting:

1. Shallow mount, to prevent running into the plastic cover
2. Get a low enough wattage sub, so the factory amp will get the job done.

I’m not sure what the factory sub is rated at, but I suspect as long as you don’t go crazy with the RMS / max power capabilities of the replacement, should be ok.