5W30 all day long, worked fine in my 6.0l for 275,000 miles. Sure there are differences, but my 2005 6.0l turns about the same RPM at cruise as my 2024, probably within about 300-400 RPM. The L87 has a 2 stage ECU controlled oil pump, the oil pressure is boosted at higher RPM's. I think the failure is the oil pressure sensor is located at the beginning of the oil flow path, not at the end! This 2 stage pump again is probably for fuel economy reasons to reduce pumping loss. Might consider forcing the oil pump to the high stage, probably can be done by either unplugging the oil pump pressure solenoid wire or providing power to it constantly. Only issue is with this trigger a CEL and cause other side effects?
The 0W oils that all the manufacturers are running is for CAFE requirements and there is only nanonuts increase in fuel economy. Some of the Toyota factory fills are 0W8!!! The issue is with this super thin oil it has less of a chance to keep a film on the bearing journals when the engine is turned off. Additionally I believe the roller bearings in the lifters and the lifter pressures on the camshaft are borderline protected with 0W20. Then add fuel and water contamination into the 0W20 at higher miles and you are lubricating with a contaminated solvent and not oil. Then to add the fact that the oil consumption of the 0W20 is rather high and I think a lot of these engines consistently are running low on oil. I believe the low oil light triggers around 2 quarts low. 0W20 seems to have more cylinder wash with the DI than the slighter heavier oils.
Anyone worried about the DFM functioning with 5W30 vs 0W20 needs to understand the DFM is not likely going to function until the engine is either partially or fully warmed up.
Now where Vladimir is located, he may have temps that could use a 0W engine oil, but I would probably run a 0W30 or 0W40 if I really has crazy low temperatures or run and engine heater if possible.
But one of the more common failures of the 6.2l engine has been front main bearing failure, rod bearing #1 and #2 tend to be either from oil starvation along with the front main or due to debris from the front main failing from what I am gathering from research.
The other craziness is GM claims the DFM may improve fuel economy by 5-20%, well my 2800 mile fuel economy average has been 17.4 MPG with the DFM being disabled. I guess I would be getting closer to 20 MPG if the DFM was not disabled! I somehow doubt I would see this much of a difference, but it is nice to dream.
Anyway it will be interesting to see where the 6.2l problem ends up. I really doubt GM will wholesale replace engines. They may extend the engine Warranty, but this will not satisfy NHTSA from the safety issue of engine failure while driving. If GM can prove that they can alter software to reduce the OCI and possibly detect wear or knocking before the engine seizes, this would be my guess as to what they will try to do.
A software solution for a hardware problem!!
The 0W oils that all the manufacturers are running is for CAFE requirements and there is only nanonuts increase in fuel economy. Some of the Toyota factory fills are 0W8!!! The issue is with this super thin oil it has less of a chance to keep a film on the bearing journals when the engine is turned off. Additionally I believe the roller bearings in the lifters and the lifter pressures on the camshaft are borderline protected with 0W20. Then add fuel and water contamination into the 0W20 at higher miles and you are lubricating with a contaminated solvent and not oil. Then to add the fact that the oil consumption of the 0W20 is rather high and I think a lot of these engines consistently are running low on oil. I believe the low oil light triggers around 2 quarts low. 0W20 seems to have more cylinder wash with the DI than the slighter heavier oils.
Anyone worried about the DFM functioning with 5W30 vs 0W20 needs to understand the DFM is not likely going to function until the engine is either partially or fully warmed up.
Now where Vladimir is located, he may have temps that could use a 0W engine oil, but I would probably run a 0W30 or 0W40 if I really has crazy low temperatures or run and engine heater if possible.
But one of the more common failures of the 6.2l engine has been front main bearing failure, rod bearing #1 and #2 tend to be either from oil starvation along with the front main or due to debris from the front main failing from what I am gathering from research.
The other craziness is GM claims the DFM may improve fuel economy by 5-20%, well my 2800 mile fuel economy average has been 17.4 MPG with the DFM being disabled. I guess I would be getting closer to 20 MPG if the DFM was not disabled! I somehow doubt I would see this much of a difference, but it is nice to dream.
Anyway it will be interesting to see where the 6.2l problem ends up. I really doubt GM will wholesale replace engines. They may extend the engine Warranty, but this will not satisfy NHTSA from the safety issue of engine failure while driving. If GM can prove that they can alter software to reduce the OCI and possibly detect wear or knocking before the engine seizes, this would be my guess as to what they will try to do.
A software solution for a hardware problem!!
