No fuel/No start

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EMK

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Ok, I'm at my wits end with this truck today. It all started this morning, I got about three miles from my house and it just shut down.

Cannot hear the fuel pump, which was just put in on Feb. 15., so I dropped the tank and pulled the pump. Waited all day for a pump to come in and finally get the thing in at around 2 o'clock.

Still not pumping!!!!!!!

I have the new harness in there and have the chassis ground on the pump side of the plug. I checked for ground with my meter and that seems to be good.

Now onto the engine side of the plug. I get only 3.25 volts when you first turn the key on, and it goes away after the first couple seconds. Which I would think is when the pump is priming.

On the one sided is the ground.

And the other side I get around 11 volts when you go to full crank. I didn't check battery voltage after cranking ALL DAY, so i'm assuming that its down and that is why I only got 11 at the plug.

I have a remote start on this truck and am think its interfering with the passlock. I had an issue with a suburban like this but it would start and shut right down and you would hear the pump fire up when you hit the key.

95 degrees, on my back, in the driveway, ALL DAY and still no truck????????

What is this ground everyone is talking about? I have read it on a few posts and they are all pretty vague on how and where to run it.
 

retorq

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What is the engine side of the plug?!

What year truck?? My 95 4 door has the ground right there in the frame. I hit that area with a steel brush attachment on a drill to get it nice and clean. I had 8 volts or so to my pump, one of the wires was pinched.
 

Ironman1979

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might also check the fuel pump relay to make sure it is operating.. also some one said some of these trucks have a oil pressure activated fuel pump once it is running and the relay only primes it.. there is a thread here talking about the same issue and diagrams were posted.. hope i helped
 

SunlitComet

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BTW the ground we have discussed before is the one from pump connector to the left frame rail for around the 1999's or rear of block for around the 1996's. Hence need a year.
 
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EMK

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Sorry, its a 97' 2 door. When I am cranking the motor you can see the oil gauge rising so I am assuming the pressure gauge is working.
 

SunlitComet

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Two separate circuit functions in the same module. Sensor for Dash gauge and and switch for pump. Tan wire from gauge, orange wire from fuse to power pump and with gray wire coming from switch heading to pump. Black/white pump ground wire from pump comes forward from pump to connector under master cylinder and then ground to right cylinder head.
 
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EMK

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Thank you for that info.

I don't have a square plug back there, its an oval three wire with a separate ground strap on the pump side. That is the replacement wire harness, correct?

And can you tell me what voltage I should have on each wire? I tried hitting 12 volts to it last night but couldn't get it to work. I did jump out the pump I took out and it is still good, fired right up.

I'm beginning to think its the wire in the tank thats bad. I'm going to pick up a relay today. You can feel the one under the hood click, two seconds latter click again, full crank you feel it click again. To me it works but is it working correct. Might be energized but not sending it out correctly.

Info is very scarce on the web concerning this matter, everything you read is just replace the pump.
 

SunlitComet

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relay click pattern sounds normal so either wires in tank, frame rail, ground or the relay power contacts are burned or pitted.
 
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EMK

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relay click pattern sounds normal so either wires in tank, frame rail, ground or the relay power contacts are burned or pitted.

DING, DING, DING........We have a winner!!!!!!

Freaking $18. dollar item has had me side lined for three days.

Wire harness in the tank had the gray/12v wire fried in the plug. Advanced had it on the shelf and tomorrow I will put it all back together and on my way. Good thing i didn't go ahead and rip the remote start out.

Thank you for your help.
 

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