no oil pressure

[Chrisf7117]

hey guys. i have a 2017 gmc yukon xl with a 6.2 L with 80k on it. the wife drives it so miles are usually pretty gentle. had the oil changed recently and drove for 19 miles (40 psi on oil gauge) and no oil pressure warning lights all go off. i shut the engine down, checked the oil level (barely on dipstick) with smoke coming from the dipstick tube. let it sit, went and got oil and added 4-5 quarts just to see if it would make pressure- none-zero oil pressure. shut it down and towed it home. had the filter changed, changed the oil again (no metal) and still zero pressure. its also now making a small knocking noise where it was not before the loss of pressure. garage checked pressure with mech gauge, still zero. now they want to change the engine!! my question is, is this complete engine swap necessary or are they just being overly cautious? can i just change the oil pump? i know its a big process, but what are your thoughts of longevity of the engine? how difficult is this oil pump to change? i have seen a ton of videos and have the tools and experience working on engines, but dont want to spend $12k on a used motor swap!! please help!!!

 

[B-train]

I'd take all your receipts to the place that changed your oil. You roached the bearings and it's no wonder you don't have pressure. The knocking noise is a dead give away Or, on an off chance the pump failed, but that doesn't seem very probable considering the oll was just changed. My guess is a kid without a clue didnt double check after filling. Those automatic fill guns are known to eff up occasionally.

If there was smoke coming out of the the dipstick tube (note it's only about 5/16" diameter) that's no small concern. YIKES!!! is all I have to say.

On another story note, a guy I met had the oil pressure fail on his hummer H2 with the 6.2L and he said by the time the light came on, he pulled off the road, and shut it down rhe motor was toast. I'm not sure if he let it run until stopped on the side of the road or coasted, but either way it doesn't take long. Tight tolerances make high heat quickly.

 

[OR VietVet]

Smoke and noises are signs of a big problem. They suggest an engine to cover themselves. They do not have x-ray vision to literally see the damage. The oil change shop is maybe a recourse.
By the way, if you say you have experience working on engines, how can you say you checked oil level, said it was barely on the dipstick-which means that it was 2 quarts low, and then you said you added 4-5 quarts? I don't want to be mean but you need to let an experienced tech do the work and bite the bullet on the cost or yell at the oil change shop. You could replace the oil pump but is likely a complete waste of time and the shop would not warranty that replacement if you had them do that. Make sure whatever you do, you get a new oil sensor and screen as well as lots of other new components while doing a teardown or complete engine. Sorry for my comments but some of what you said about the experience makes no sense.

By the way, $12k for a USED motor swap is robbery. There must be other qualified shops to do the work at a better price and remember, you already have a used engine. If the oil change shop covers it, I bet they insist on a used engine, use the shop they would use and if you want a new or reman engine, you pay the cost difference.

 

[Chrisf7117]

Yes, I actually have many years of wrenching on cars, engines and the like. Worked in a shop when I was younger and unaware of what path to take… years ago.
Anyhow, no offense taken, yes I overfilled, but purposefully. Many posts abt the pick up tube o ring being an issue with oil pressure, I had nothing to lose and drained off the excess shortly after that experiment with obviously no success.
The oil change shop has absolved themselves of any responsibility so I’m on my own. All the engines I’ve found online and nearby are ranging in the $8k range with 24 hr flat rate… do the math…
Thanks for the rest of your input. Appreciated.

 

[B-train]

Very large OOF! YUCK

 

[OR VietVet]

Thanks for explanation. I reacted to what I read. Used engines for $8k? Where the hell is this? Are you saying they said 24 hours to do the swap, start to finish?

Hopefully any member here can look up a flat rate hours comparison for an engine swap in All Data

 

[swathdiver]

hey guys. i have a 2017 gmc yukon xl with a 6.2 L with 80k on it. the wife drives it so miles are usually pretty gentle. had the oil changed recently and drove for 19 miles (40 psi on oil gauge) and no oil pressure warning lights all go off. i shut the engine down, checked the oil level (barely on dipstick) with smoke coming from the dipstick tube. let it sit, went and got oil and added 4-5 quarts just to see if it would make pressure- none-zero oil pressure. shut it down and towed it home. had the filter changed, changed the oil again (no metal) and still zero pressure. its also now making a small knocking noise where it was not before the loss of pressure. garage checked pressure with mech gauge, still zero. now they want to change the engine!! my question is, is this complete engine swap necessary or are they just being overly cautious? can i just change the oil pump? i know its a big process, but what are your thoughts of longevity of the engine? how difficult is this oil pump to change? i have seen a ton of videos and have the tools and experience working on engines, but dont want to spend $12k on a used motor swap!! please help!!!

Can't comment on the price as I don't know what the market is like where you live. Since you can turn wrenches, make some room in the garage and pull the motor and tear it down. Then you'll know how much damage was done and what to repair. Probably just bearings all around and maybe a new camshaft and lifters but of course I'm speculating since I'm not looking at the parts.

I used to manage a Jiffy Lube a long time ago. Since then, my oil has been changed twice without me by my wife while I was sick. Both times the places she took it to almost destroyed our motors. I've since trained my children to do it as well. My engines are too expensive let dudes on work release near them.

 

[Chrisf7117]

Unfortunately the 6.2l is one of the most sought after engines, is on National back order with no eta from GM, can’t find any remans so the few used ones (anywhere in the US, range around $8k. I’d love to know the actual flat rate, but tend to believe it’s a 24 hr job, the oil pump alone is 13 hours, you have to move the front diff to yank the oil pan…. Engineers suck! Lol

 

[Blackcar]

Unfortunately the 6.2l is one of the most sought after engines, is on National back order with no eta from GM, can’t find any remans so the few used ones (anywhere in the US, range around $8k. I’d love to know the actual flat rate, but tend to believe it’s a 24 hr job, the oil pump alone is 13 hours, you have to move the front diff to yank the oil pan…. Engineers suck! Lol

If you turn wrenches, it would be worth pulling pan and replace pump and O-ring to see what happens. Being low on oil and if I'm reading this right wasn't driven after showing no oil pressure. You have nothing to lose unless when you drain oil there is metal in oil.

 

[OR VietVet]

Jasper Engines.