No start.. pops in exhaust..

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95TahoePA

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Hello.
Just bought a 2000 Tahoe Z71 (Still OBS hence why I posted it here). I knew it needed a fuel pump and battery. Also found our it needed a spider injector set-up. Replaced all that and she ran. Found that one of the "nipples" broke on the cap, so I replaced it... It ran Saturday night.. a bit out of timing, but ran. Sunday morning I went to start it nd found the starter wasn't spinning the motor.. just spun. Found out the gear was just free spining. So I replace the starter... No start, just cranks. Get random pops in the exhaust but that's about it. Suggestions please!
 
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95TahoePA

95TahoePA

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** Update **
I found my spark tester. It's an extremely weak spark. I hooked the spark tester to my 95 Hoe just to make sure the tester worked.. and it lights up nice and bright..
So, I get weak spark, fuel, air but no start. Going to replace the following:
Plugs. Wires. Rotor (cap was already done) and coil. Ignition module was already replaced too..
Any other suggeations while I'm at it?
 
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95TahoePA

95TahoePA

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I know it's -was- a bit our of time after we got her to start. And I did nothing to it besides replace the starter the next day. Starter would engage but only spin the motor for a split second and then disengage the motor. Took the starter off and found the gear was freespinning. That was the only change since we had it running.

---------- Post added at 01:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:36 PM ----------

** Another update **

As of 10 mins ago, I have NO spark. Still old stuff. Someone mentioned at the store to try just the wires. Said sometimes the coil wire will fry. It was on the list of parts, so I got them only. Put the old wire back on and still no spark. Coil and CPS here I come!
 

SunlitComet

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btw, someone will always say something will fry or it is a common issue ignore from this point on. imo unless there is a tsb about it or parts makers have improved it, sometimes things just fail. approach the problem systematically to avoid wasting money on parts.
 

Jerky Arm Ape

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Yes there is a way to test everything.
I had this problem on a '97 Tahoe, 98 yukon, 96 z71 pickup and a 99 suburban.
All of them needed a rotor.
All of them had the same series of codes.
Mulitiple miss fire, random misfire, would call for certain cylinders, too on misfire.
I have a full shop with obd1 and obd2 code scanners.

The problem threw quite a few mechanics around town and my local dealership for a loop.
But after finally diagnosing the first one correctly without out any new parts we found it to be the rotor.

We replaced only the rotor and the problem went away, cheap ish fix which leads me to my point.

Modern day auto mechanics have turned into small diagnosis and then start throwing new parts at it that are related to the mis repaired system (I.e. ign system or fuel system etc.)

Don't let the parts guy fill his pockets with your pocket grease, diagnos, research, make phone calls and so on.
 
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95TahoePA

95TahoePA

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Back-story of this truck might clear things up a bit and as to why I don't mind putting a few new pieces into it.
It belonged to a good friend who is currently moving to Florida. It died on her in December with a bad duel pump. Her EX boyfriend insisted it was "vapor locked" and continued to crank on it until it killed the battery.. one continuous crank from what I am told. Recharged it and did it again. Probably what destroyed the starter. LoL Also, he was the main one driving the truck and liked to drive it around with 1/8th tank of gas and run out all the time. I didn't pay anywhere near it is worth because I made her the promise to fix her right and make it nice again.. which I'm going to do.
The reason I even considered listening to the guy was the coil wire really didn't "click" into place on the coil nor the cap. Plus I was going to do plugs and wires anyways :)
 

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