Not a Tahoe, but I need help with my '92 K1500 (TBI) please guys...

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ChrisAU

ChrisAU

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Sooo I got the TB rebuild done, unplugged the battery while I put it on to reset the ECM, plugged the battery back in after I was done and did a IAC relearn before cranking it. Immediately obvious that the passenger side injector was leaking, so I cut it off and redid all the o-rings in the pod. Cranked it back up, no leaks. But it runs like ****. It stalled the first time I put it in drive. However, after re-cranking it it did start to run better and it didn't stall the next time I put it in drive. Its been suggested that I run it 30 miles or so after a re-learn for it to get perfect, so we'll see. I needed beers while doing this and since my rear bumper is removed I don't have a license plate, so I'm not driving it tonight.

TB Before:
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TB After:
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SunlitComet

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If you remove it it is supposed to be relearned I believe my manuals show. Besides after crappy running an a clean rebuild why would you not do it. Would you like the exact procedure Atomic?
 
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ChrisAU

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Battery unhooked for a bit to clear computer, hooked battery back up. Jumped top right two terminals on OBD1 port, turned key forward, waited 30 seconds or so, turned key off, removed jumper, cranked truck.

Two things in that procedure can tell you you did it right: 1) the SES light flashing once, pausing, then twice for a code 12, which is normal operation, and 2) you can feel the valve body of the IAC pulsing as the motor repeatedly draws back.
 

AtomicHoe094

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Gotcha, the IAC will reset/learn it self within 100 miles of driving as well. If its not doing any better by that point, you have a different problem.

Did you clean all the ports in the side of the TB well? the egr one gets pretty dirty and clogs the passage way..
 
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ChrisAU

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Oh yeah I blasted and q-tipped the hell out of all ports, LOTS of **** came out.

Buttt, it seems to be running better, but the same problem exists...although I was unable to get it to stall. It did run perfectly smoothly going down the road and I can feel a power increase, but at idle once warmed up it still has the same problem. When I got back from a test drive today I left it in gear for a bit and videoed the tachometer and then cycled through gears. You can see what I'm talking about, every time you see the needle move the truck shakes. I'm really not sure where to go from here.

(CLICK IMAGE TO PLAY VIDEO)

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retorq

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That shows you are idling at 200 RPMS ... you got something else wrong.
 

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