Odd Bose radio issues. No sound when cold. Randomly powers off for a few seconds. Occasional theftlock briefly then works fine.

[Burban22]

I have a 2003 suburban z71 with factory 6 disc in dash cd receiver. When it’s colder than 50 degrees the radio powers on but now sound or door chime until the cabin warms up. Summer months it works fine. Cold months nothing the you hear a pop and you get sound.

I’ve tried replacing the Bose amp (under the center console) pulled from a junkyard Tahoe of same vintage. Still same issue.

Also tried reflowing solider in the main circuit board on the radio receiver and my original amp.

Still no change has the no sound when cold. The random theftlock seems new but it self heals and goes away within a few seconds. Only happens very rarely. The random radio powering off then on is new.

Anyone else experience this? Is there a known wiring harness issue under dash or center console?

My burb has the sunroof, maybe in the past 20 years someone left it open and it rained? Although switching out the Bose amp didn’t seem to fix anything.

Also get codes
Radio DTCs
U1000 Class 2 Data Link Malfunction
U1016 Lost Communication with Powertrain Control Module
U1151 Loss of VIU Communications
U1167 Lost Communications with Rear Seat Audio/Rear HVAC

BCM DTCs
U1000 Class 2 Data Link Malfunction

 

[Burban22]

 

[mattbta]

Given that it has some class 2 errors and an RSE error - you may have an issue with the Rear Seat Entertainment. The connector to the rear entertainment/hvac control is inside the console and may have been unplugged or not seated fully when you swapped out the amp. The RSE has a class 2 wire (light blue, pin A1). The intermittent nature of the problems isn't explained, though. Double check that connector is plugged in or fully seated. Might also inspect it for any wiring/pin issues.

 

[Burban22]

Given that it has some class 2 errors and an RSE error - you may have an issue with the Rear Seat Entertainment. The connector to the rear entertainment/hvac control is inside the console and may have been unplugged or not seated fully when you swapped out the amp. The RSE has a class 2 wire (light blue, pin A1). The intermittent nature of the problems isn't explained, though. Double check that connector is plugged in or fully seated. Might also inspect it for any wiring/pin issues.

View attachment 411643

Update: I disconnected the rear audio module in your pic and I still get sound but only in front door speakers. Makes sense but doesn’t make sense why I get no sound at all when cold temps.

I looked at the main connector under center console and disconnecting that caused no sound at all but radio is on. I looked at all the pins and they are clean. Some odd clear wires that seem like an afterthought but they do connect to the prongs inside connector.

I’m betting something wrong with circuit board in my oem radio. Wish these radios weren’t gen 2 theftlock and I could just throw another oem radio in. 2003+ radios have the vin preprogrammed and if the vin in radio mismatches the vehicle vin you get locked message and you’re screwed. Can’t call the 800 number and enter code, must be unlocked by dealer and most dealers around me won’t even look at it for $150+

I may just have to put an aftermarket radio in and bypass Bose amp and rear seat controls when it finally dies all together but I really like the OEM look and functionality.

 

[Burban22]

Pics of main connector from dash radio to Bose amp and rear seat audio controls under center console.

 

[mattbta]

I was suggesting that the RSE connection might be intermittent causing the loss of comms. You've also got codes for other modules that lost communication. Most class 2 modules will hose the entire network if only one goes wonky.

Are the codes still active? How were you accessing the "U" codes? What scan tool? If re-seating the RSE connector didn't fix the codes, the issue may be somewhere else.

Check all of your grounds, clean as necessary. Then pull the PCM and look for evidence of water intrusion/crusties. Clean as necessary.

 

[Burban22]

I was suggesting that the RSE connection might be intermittent causing the loss of comms. You've also got codes for other modules that lost communication. Most class 2 modules will hose the entire network if only one goes wonky.

Are the codes still active? How were you accessing the "U" codes? What scan tool? If re-seating the RSE connector didn't fix the codes, the issue may be somewhere else.

Check all of your grounds, clean as necessary. Then pull the PCM and look for evidence of water intrusion/crusties. Clean as necessary.

Odd that the only code when I flat out unplugged the rear audio module was u1000.

I’ve used BlueDriver Bluetooth scanner and Innova 5610 to scan U codes.

I did send my PCM off to Blackbear Performance and had them tune it and remove the security VATS system but these problems occurred before that.

I suppose I could look at the computer connection again in the engine bay but it was clean when I reinstalled the PCM.

I’ve replaced the negative battery cable as the original was full of corrosion under the protective boot. Unfortunately no change. I can check the frame grounds but it’s a pretty rust free southwest burb.

I appreciate the help!

 

[Burban22]

I’ve checked these grounds:

Neg Battery cable to engine block

Small front bumper ground wire

Driver side engine block to firewall

2 grounds near body mount under driver seat outside of cabin.

Small ground in cabin under driver side a pillar near front of windshield

Did I miss any?

The large ground cable from firewall to hood is broken which I believe is only for under hood light which I don’t use.

 

[TollKeeper]

I know this is going to be WAY out in left field.. Does, or did, your truck have the rear air suspension?

 

[Burban22]

I know this is going to be WAY out in left field.. Does, or did, your truck have the rear air suspension?

Nope. There is a box bolted to the rear passenger quarter panel with a bunch of connections, license plate lights being one of them. Not sure what the other 3 do…