OEM Plug in sub location without sub

[GM_fan97]

Mine took about 3 weeks to get, their web site said 3-5 days, but we were told it would be 3-5 weeks when we ordered it. You can't believe how poor the stock one is until you replace it, really happy no boxes taking up room in my truck, and really good bass

The stealthbox came in on time and the shop got most of the install done today. I could have picked it up basically as they were closing today but work was busy and I didn't want to rush them so I'm going to pick it up tomorrow

I couldn't find my JL Audio A1400 amp (long story but I'm pretty sure I loaned it to my brother and he sold the car w/my amp in it powering his sub) so I ended up getting the XD300/1v2 to power it.

Quick question on the install: is defeating the active noise cancelling definitely required? (snipping the purple wire I think). I'm 99% sure the install place took care of it but figured I'd pose the question prior to picking it up

 

[hcvone]

We tried it unplugged both sitting and driving, and plugged in sitting and driving and could not find any difference, now maybe it's something that Callaway turns off, but they say no, so I am just not sure, it is disconnected on mine

 

[BlackZ71-15]

The stealthbox came in on time and the shop got most of the install done today. I could have picked it up basically as they were closing today but work was busy and I didn't want to rush them so I'm going to pick it up tomorrow

How do you like the stealthbox? I've been contemplating getting one for months, but I'm worried it would cause rattling issues in the center console or dash.

 

[hcvone]

I am really happy with mine, great bass punch

 

[GM_fan97]

How do you like the stealthbox? I've been contemplating getting one for months, but I'm worried it would cause rattling issues in the center console or dash.

Hey, I am definitely enjoying it thus far. Ended up picking it up last Saturday (Jan 30th). Still want to adjust some of the settings but I'm waiting to do that until they are done with a fix on the install. They used a line-output converter that also provides a 12v remote turn on to tell the JL amp to turn on...and if I don't have the volume at 40% or higher, the Kicker LOC doesn't output enough on the 12v lead to keep the JL amp awake...and thus it turns off after about 30 seconds The install place was going to correct it this past Saturday but I already had plans so they are going to fix it this upcoming Saturday (Jan 13th).

Kicker makes the LOC and from what I can tell, the LOC itself doesn't require it's own power - it converts the high-level signal from the stock Bose sub amp into a 12v DC output for the remote turn on (in addition to the regular LOC function of RCA's for the JL amp inputs). Apparently it is harder to find a switched 12v wire in the newer vehicles and this Kicker LOC was supposed to solve that problem by eliminating the need for a relay.

Anyway, once that is all fixed/happy, then I'll play with the crossover frequency. They set it to 80hz and 24db cutoff slope...I'll probably keep the 24db slope but might lower the crossover. I also have a JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box from a prior vehicle that I want to test out just for kicks. I got the HD-RLC remote level control for the sub as well which I 100% recommend. I had it installed just past the lower dash trim, driver's side in front of my right knee. I can still lean forward and reach it but it's outta sight and they didn't have to drill any holes through the lower dash piece = win

To answer the question on rattles - I haven't heard any yet but haven't played around w/it too much still...haven't been driving much w/working from home + the snow in the philly area.

 

[hcvone]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

 

[GM_fan97]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

Nice, that is good to hear. I forgot to mention that as part of the install they basically snip the wire that feeds the noise cancelation to disable it. This is different than the "Bose Autopilot", the noise canceling cannot be turned off via a setting, need to cut the wire. It can be "undone" and re-enabled if you ever put the factory sub back in. I wasn't sure if this was 100% necessary but after some Googling, an aftermarket sub (more powerful) creates a feedback loop where the noise canceling adjusts the signal to the sub in an attempt to cancel out some of the bass...which makes the sub sound different, which then makes the noise canceling change again, etc, etc, and apparently it sounds horrendous.

I am convinced I am hearing more road noise now lol - probably just my imagination since I know they disabled the noise canceling...either way, I was debating adding sound deadening to the doors + floor.

Did you DIY the sound deadening or pay an installer? The shop that did the install for me (World Wide Stereo in Montgomeryville PA) uses Dynamat brand exclusively so I'd have to use their stuff...I'm sure it works fine but I think I'm paying a premium for the "Dynamat" name. The increased product cost and paying for the labor is tempting me to try it myself. I have experience taking panels out, replacing speakers, etc...I just have a fear of putting it somewhere that causes clearance/panel fitment issues.

 

[gat0r]

if you have the time, patience & tools... do the sound deadening yourself.
look at the diff products... some are tar/asphalt based & have a smell.
butyl rubber based is the better option

good info on this site
https://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/how-to

 

[BlackZ71-15]

No rattles, I had a lot of sound deadening put in thru the truck and doors, made the music sound even better without as much road noise

Hey, I am definitely enjoying it thus far. Ended up picking it up last Saturday (Jan 30th). Still want to adjust some of the settings but I'm waiting to do that until they are done with a fix on the install. They used a line-output converter that also provides a 12v remote turn on to tell the JL amp to turn on...and if I don't have the volume at 40% or higher, the Kicker LOC doesn't output enough on the 12v lead to keep the JL amp awake...and thus it turns off after about 30 seconds The install place was going to correct it this past Saturday but I already had plans so they are going to fix it this upcoming Saturday (Jan 13th).

Kicker makes the LOC and from what I can tell, the LOC itself doesn't require it's own power - it converts the high-level signal from the stock Bose sub amp into a 12v DC output for the remote turn on (in addition to the regular LOC function of RCA's for the JL amp inputs). Apparently it is harder to find a switched 12v wire in the newer vehicles and this Kicker LOC was supposed to solve that problem by eliminating the need for a relay.

Anyway, once that is all fixed/happy, then I'll play with the crossover frequency. They set it to 80hz and 24db cutoff slope...I'll probably keep the 24db slope but might lower the crossover. I also have a JL 10w3v3 in a sealed box from a prior vehicle that I want to test out just for kicks. I got the HD-RLC remote level control for the sub as well which I 100% recommend. I had it installed just past the lower dash trim, driver's side in front of my right knee. I can still lean forward and reach it but it's outta sight and they didn't have to drill any holes through the lower dash piece = win

To answer the question on rattles - I haven't heard any yet but haven't played around w/it too much still...haven't been driving much w/working from home + the snow in the philly area.

Awesome! Im glad both of you guys like them, Im probably gonna pull the trigger this coming weekend, thanks!

 

[hcvone]

Nice, that is good to hear. I forgot to mention that as part of the install they basically snip the wire that feeds the noise cancelation to disable it. This is different than the "Bose Autopilot", the noise canceling cannot be turned off via a setting, need to cut the wire. It can be "undone" and re-enabled if you ever put the factory sub back in. I wasn't sure if this was 100% necessary but after some Googling, an aftermarket sub (more powerful) creates a feedback loop where the noise canceling adjusts the signal to the sub in an attempt to cancel out some of the bass...which makes the sub sound different, which then makes the noise canceling change again, etc, etc, and apparently it sounds horrendous.

I am convinced I am hearing more road noise now lol - probably just my imagination since I know they disabled the noise canceling...either way, I was debating adding sound deadening to the doors + floor.

Did you DIY the sound deadening or pay an installer? The shop that did the install for me (World Wide Stereo in Montgomeryville PA) uses Dynamat brand exclusively so I'd have to use their stuff...I'm sure it works fine but I think I'm paying a premium for the "Dynamat" name. The increased product cost and paying for the labor is tempting me to try it myself. I have experience taking panels out, replacing speakers, etc...I just have a fear of putting it somewhere that causes clearance/panel fitment issues.

We're like neighbors, they do good work, never installed anything for me, but purchased many things thru the years from them. My installer who did my Tahoe sound system and radenso radar and laser, Joe Bruno Designs installed the dyamat, everything was removed from my truck inside, when I saw it I thought it would never go back together without rattles, but you hit a pothole or railroad tracks and less noise than stock which shocked me, thought I would be searching for rattles for years, but none