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Matahoe
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Yeah, more than likely. Will go back to 5w-30 come spring.
I put 0w-20 in my wife's car and it helped with the lifter noise
Oil pan gasket and pickup tube seal replacement
- Thread starter Matahoe
- Start date
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Yeah, more than likely. Will go back to 5w-30 come spring.
I put 0w-20 in my wife's car and it helped with the lifter noise
Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I need to replace the oil pan gasket too... Why not just unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the motor? I did this on my 94 Z28 and worked like a champ. Is there not enough room on the truck to do this?
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Matahoe
Full Access Member
If I had to do it all over again I would just remove the front differential completely. Most especially if you know of any differential issues like ring gear or bearing damage. You would more than likely need to dismantle the differential in these cases regardless...so....
Overall it's relatively easy to remove (aside from the time you need to invest) and it gets parts out in the open (out from under the truck) to clean and inspect. Cleaning these parts is a big part of the job (if for instance you care not to repeat any seal replacement due to grime and such). Lots of dirt buildup from all the years of oil up under there.
Removing engine mounts would be a good side job if they were old and suspect. They are "there" in plain sight once the oil pan is removed. So are the starter, crank sensor and oil pan level sensor. You can see how it becomes a simpler task to remove the engine mounts once the front diff and oil pan are removed. As far as how much muscle and time it takes to break the fasteners free is anyone's guess. I personally have no first hand experience with replacing them. As far as jacking up the engine to remove the mounts...you could simply use a 2x4 anchored between a floor jack and pretty much any hard point on the lower part of the block at this point. Don't worry about all the warnings regarding lifting the engine by the bottom side at this point. Once the oil pan is removed (which is a weak cast aluminum) ...all you see is iron under there.
Overall it's relatively easy to remove (aside from the time you need to invest) and it gets parts out in the open (out from under the truck) to clean and inspect. Cleaning these parts is a big part of the job (if for instance you care not to repeat any seal replacement due to grime and such). Lots of dirt buildup from all the years of oil up under there.
Removing engine mounts would be a good side job if they were old and suspect. They are "there" in plain sight once the oil pan is removed. So are the starter, crank sensor and oil pan level sensor. You can see how it becomes a simpler task to remove the engine mounts once the front diff and oil pan are removed. As far as how much muscle and time it takes to break the fasteners free is anyone's guess. I personally have no first hand experience with replacing them. As far as jacking up the engine to remove the mounts...you could simply use a 2x4 anchored between a floor jack and pretty much any hard point on the lower part of the block at this point. Don't worry about all the warnings regarding lifting the engine by the bottom side at this point. Once the oil pan is removed (which is a weak cast aluminum) ...all you see is iron under there.
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Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
I looked at jacking up the motor only to realize I'd have to take all the radiator plastic crap apart. I chose to drop the front diff instead. So far has been really easy just a lot of crap to move out of the way lol The pan is off. I just had to lower the diff as much as I could with unbolting it. However, I don't think I'll be able to get it on without messing up the gasket. I realized Few questions,
(1) I cannot seem to get the diff all the way out though as the pitman arm on the driver side is stuck. The passenger side came loose with just a little persuasion. However, driver side is stuck good. Is there a puller that fits this truck's pitman arm on amazon? I think that should get the more persistent side loose.
(2) Upon inspection there was a really nasty RTV job on the rear of the gasket by the flywheel. I'm thinking it was leaking from there. However, I want to doubly ensure wasn't the rear main seal. How to I tell?
(1) I cannot seem to get the diff all the way out though as the pitman arm on the driver side is stuck. The passenger side came loose with just a little persuasion. However, driver side is stuck good. Is there a puller that fits this truck's pitman arm on amazon? I think that should get the more persistent side loose.
(2) Upon inspection there was a really nasty RTV job on the rear of the gasket by the flywheel. I'm thinking it was leaking from there. However, I want to doubly ensure wasn't the rear main seal. How to I tell?
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Matahoe
Full Access Member
Don't mess with the steering linkage...
All you need to do is remove both front axles to give you enough slack to properly lower the front differential. Once the axles are disconnected...you have essentially isolated the steering linkage from the knuckle which the axles go through.
For the differential itself, there are exactly 1 electrical connector, 2 nuts on the passenger side and 2 large bolts which hold the whole differential assembly up into place. Once those fasteners are removed you can lower it with a jack at your discretion. But as I said in my previous post...you may find it easier to just remove the entire differential. Especially if it needs a good cleaning or if you need to replace the CV joint and/or the CV axle seals (if they are leaking).
Since you have the CV axle nuts off at this point ...think about inspecting and replacing the the left and right CV axles and both hubs as well.
All you need to do is remove both front axles to give you enough slack to properly lower the front differential. Once the axles are disconnected...you have essentially isolated the steering linkage from the knuckle which the axles go through.
For the differential itself, there are exactly 1 electrical connector, 2 nuts on the passenger side and 2 large bolts which hold the whole differential assembly up into place. Once those fasteners are removed you can lower it with a jack at your discretion. But as I said in my previous post...you may find it easier to just remove the entire differential. Especially if it needs a good cleaning or if you need to replace the CV joint and/or the CV axle seals (if they are leaking).
Since you have the CV axle nuts off at this point ...think about inspecting and replacing the the left and right CV axles and both hubs as well.
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Matthew Jeschke
Full Access Member
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Matahoe
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No...don't remove anything related to steering. I amended my post and added more detail. Please reread.
Matthew Jeschke
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Thanks for the help
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Most that have done this job are lowering the Differential just enough to get the pan off. When you have problems removing the entire Differential you will understand why most have decided not to remove it completely. The Steering Link is definitely in the way and absolute pain to work around but I did the best I could to tighten the bolts and finish the job.
JonnyTahoe
Full Access Member
Replace the Pan Gasket and then see if you still have a leak. RTV is not going to stop a Rear Main Oil Leak.
