Operating temp too low?

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iCajun

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Sort of on the same subject, but the LT1 in my Impala had been running a little hotter every day for the last week. I replaced the thermostat for lack of a better idea and it went back to normal, to 200 from about 230 on the OBD2. I've never heard of a thermostat failing like that. Thanks, Alan
 

iamdub

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Worse fuel mileage is only one of the problems running too cool will cause. The engine was designed to run within a certain operating range to help promote more complete combustion and it's cooling system designed to support and maintain this temperature range. When running too cool, the fuel isn't burned as efficiently. This can lead to excess carbon build-up in the combustion chambers and even clogging of the catalytic converters. When warming up, the engine can remain in open loop ("warm-up") mode for too long, meaning that the PCM is adding extra fuel longer than necessary in an effort to get the engine up to operating temperature. The excess unburnt fuel can also soot over the upstream O2 sensors. So, once warmed up and in closed loop, if it gets there, the sensors don't read the exhaust as accurately and report the exhaust as being leaner than it actually is. The PCM increases fueling thinking it needs to richen the mixture, further exacerbating the issues.

It's old school thinking to keep an engine running as cool as possible. Engines and their lubricants are so far advanced (yes, even the old Gen3 Vortecs) from those days that they can safely reap the benefits of higher combustion and operating temps. 195-215 is a perfectly safe and efficient operating range.

As far as the gauge is concerned, it may or may not be acceptably accurate. A possibly faulty sensor and the loose manufacturing tolerances of the gauge cluster, typical of this era, leave this aspect to be questioned.

On the flip side, having a thermostat stuck open or even no thermostat can actually cause an engine to run hotter, especially during hot weather and when cruising. The coolant needs to flow to carry the heat from the engine and through the radiator to be cooled so it can go back into the engine to repeat the cycle. If there's no restriction (stuck open or no thermostat), the coolant may not remain in the radiator long enough to be cooled sufficiently so the operating temps rise.

You may be fine burning extra fuel because "it gets crappy mileage anyway", but it's actually costing you more than just more frequent trips to the gas station.
 

iCajun

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Curiosity got me so yesterday I put a 180 ohm resistor between the sensor wire and ground, which I understand should read 212 degrees on the gauge. Mine read a little low. Think I'll pull the temperature needle off and re-position it eventually.
 

OR VietVet

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You would be best to attach a scanner to the system and get an accurate reading. The correct thermostat, 195 degree, is important to help the system go to closed loop and allow the oxygen sensors to operate correctly. Your crappy fuel mileage could be because your system is constantly reading open loop, like right after you start and engine is cold, and more fuel is supplied to be burned during warm up. Like a choke on an old carb type system.
 

OR VietVet

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Curiosity got me so yesterday I put a 180 ohm resistor between the sensor wire and ground, which I understand should read 212 degrees on the gauge. Mine read a little low. Think I'll pull the temperature needle off and re-position it eventually.

Good luck with that endeavor. Have a new dash gauge to install when you break the old one trying to do that.
 

HERC1969

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Mine runs at exactly those dial numbers 50-60C for temperature, runs good, no issues on a new 195 thermostat and flush. The thermostat opens between 90-100C, so everything appears to be in working order. As a side note, my oil pressure is between 140-275kpa dependent upon engine load.
 

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