Ordering 4L80E + Torque Converter

[blackcoffee]

I'm ordering my 4L80E from Monster Transmissions tomorrow.
I'm going with the Mega Monster Heavy Duty 4L80E.
[Part# MG4-4L80E]
$1,995.00

I'll be ordering a Torque Converter as well, from Yank.
I need to figure out what kind of stall I'll need.
This is my Daily Driver, my Towing Vehicle, My mudding Vehicle, And my hauling ass Vehicle.

What would be the best all around Stall?

Also, what else will need? I know I need to get some transmission fluid.

I'll need to modify the cross member.

I also need to get a nice transmission cooler, I really don't want to ruin this thing I'm putting alot of money into this.

Please post, and help me make the right decision.

 

[Brandon X]

Go Royal Purple on the fluid.

 

[95TwinTT]

You should not have to modify the cross member. Look at your frame, there should be another set of bolt holes south of the current location. Just slide the cross member to the next set of holes. The mount itself, should fit the new tranny.

Don’t get carried away with a external cooler. The stock cooling system in your radiator is more than enough.

You will need a new dip stick and tube, the old one won’t reach.

Since the 4L80 will be able to operate at normal pressures for your application, there is no way heat will ever be an issue. Plus the synthetic oil is nice, but it’s main benefit is holding viscosity when very hot. In normal applications, standard ATF is more than good enough.

As far as stall speed goes, for your situation I would not go over 3200. A lot of the higher speed TC’s are smaller in diameter. To keep the specs up on the lockup, they add multiple disc’s. I’ve got three in mine.

You are buying a very good transmission, don’t cut corners with the TC, that’s the key to getting the most out of the tranny. Get some advice from the tranny builder on what TC they would recommend.

Good luck, sounds like a fun project…..

 

[blackcoffee]

Oh alright, I always thought you had to modify the cross member for the 80 to fit. Atleast that's one thing I won't have to worry about.

You really don't think I'll need an external cooler, not even a small one?

I won't cut corners with the TC, thats why I plan to purchase a "Yank" I've read a lot of 80E swap builds and the best comments for TC's seem to be from the YANK TC's.

I'll call Monster Transmissions tomorrow.
Hopefully I'll be able to purchase both the transmission and the TC tomorrow.
I'm just going to get everything ordered I need.
Next to find will be the LQ4 6.0L. But I'm gonna get this squared away first.

---------- Post added at 10:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 PM ----------

After looking at Yank's website for awhile,

I think the YANK TRUCK THRUSTER 2600 will suffice.

278mm, 2600 stall, 2.10 STR

---------- Post added at 10:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:35 PM ----------

I'll also be doing a Lokar Automatic Floor shifter.
Is this in any way a bad idea?
I've always wanted one.

hehehe

---------- Post added at 10:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:36 PM ----------

Never mind, I won't be able to go with that TC it is not intended for use with the 4L80.
I'd more likely go with the

YANK TRUCK THRUSTER 2600HD 4L80E
300mm, 2600 stall, 2.0 STR | This converter is a significant step up from stock, but will maintain all the towing capacity intended for this heavy duty class of Trucks.

But, its $900.... Is that rediculous?

---------- Post added at 11:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:38 PM ----------

Parts needed to complete the 4L60E to 4L80E transmission swap:


Transmission $2500.00 - $500.00 = $2000.00 (After Refund)
4L80e torque converter $350.00
Transmission Cooler - Not currently needed
80e flex plate – PN:12551367
Flex plate bolts – 12563533
Flex plate spacer – PN:12563532 Advanced Adapters 1-800-350-2223 Ext. 522 Ask for Jim.
Torque converter bolts – local parts store
Lower bell housing – PN:15765723
Lower bell housing bolts – PN:11516328
Lokar Automatic Floor Shifter - $210.00
Lokar LED Boot & Mount - $75.00
80e gear selector cable bracket $?.00
HD truck dipstick tube – PN:15832205
Transmission mount – reuse PN:22201140
Dual Cardinal driveshaft $429.00
Pre ’99 rear end seal – NAPA PN:19273
PCM 80e calibration – Black Bear - $0.00
60e to 80e conversion harness
Transmission Fluid - $150.00
change the input gear in transfer case (NP241)


The factory transmission lines are not going to line up. The front line can be straightened out so that is pushes in to the front trans line connector.
The back line needs to be extended.

Clean the transmission lines, cooler and any external coolers with a can of transmission line cleaner

 

[95TwinTT]

A good converter will be in the $1,000 range.

Converters are an art to themselves. There are so many variables. I only trust the guys at Midwest Performance Converters. They make precision converters.
http://midwestconverter.com/SLING.html

Check out the questions they ask for making a custom TC. Might give you some ideas as to what to ask your converter guys.


Just make sure the converter you buy, can handle high rpm’s and has a good “Lock up” clutch system. Many of the high stalls don’t offer lock up.

As far as the floor shifter goes, I think the column shift is fine for 99% of driving. The other 1%, I use a electric paddle shifter when I switch to manual shifting. I have the paddle button next to the edge of the front seat, on the side of the center console.

 

[blackcoffee]

Picked up the 4L80E yesterday. Got it to the shop today, all went well. 1800-2000 stall torque converter.



Heres the road to monster transmissions in Brooksville florida. Pretty nice place.

 

[95TwinTT]

That 1800 to 2000 stall is basically stock. It might not be as responsive as your 4L60e was, seeing as how the 80 has a taller first gear.

Maybe you will get lucky and it will actually spin faster.....

 

[blackcoffee]

Well I was expecting that, I just went with 1800 - 2000 stall with a lock up because I tow quite a bit.

On to my next question, 95TwinTT. We both have 4wd and 2 doors.
Could you name every part I will need, IN detail.
I know this is asking a lot...
But it would really help, I know I need to change the driveshaft, dipstick, pcm tune, transfer case, wiring harness, flywheel crossmember. Now I'm not positive on these, but this guy I take my truck once in awhile keeps telling me I'm screwed because I'm still gonna need thousands of dollars in parts. I know I might need a few parts but, I'm sure its not going to cost me thousands.

 

[95TwinTT]

We used the same transfer case. The input shaft was changed to match the 80.

I had a new drive shaft made for the front and shortened the existing rear drive shaft, changing the front u-joint and spline to match the larger size of the 80.

The cross member is the same as well as the trans mount. It is just slid back to the next set of holes in the frame.

The dip stick and tube was just ordered from a local chev dealer.

I did not keep any record of part numbers, sorry. Electronically, I switched to a separate computer for the trans, with it’s own wiring harness (TCI/TCU). I remember from the schematics, that there are a couple wires different from the 60. The computer and wiring harness I use, has a jumper wire and plug to change back and forth from 4L60 to 4L80. The other changes are made in the software from the laptop computer.

If I remember right, your OBD2. I have to believe that it can be changed over to the 80 with some editing, but the wiring harness from it to the trans, will have to be modified or changed. If you could find a schematic with the “pin outs” of the trans and OBD2, you could probably change the harness you have. The color coded wires make it fairly easy if your into wiring…..

I only use the rear speed sensor and it works fine for speedo and trans control.

My 4x4 is manual, so I just welded an extension on the shift rod to make is fit. The neutral safety switch was the same as for the 60.

That’s about all I can recall about the swap. I hope it helps some.

 

[blackcoffee]

Sweet man, well thats not horrible. Now the only things I need to figure out myself is wiring and the whole transfer case thing since I have autotrac. How about the fly wheel do you remember anything?