Warriorpluto
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Has anyone ever replaced the parking pawl on am 6l80e? I have no park.
Parking pawl replacement 6l80e
- Thread starter Warriorpluto
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swathdiver
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I have not but have looked up how to do it and posted instructions from my shop manual on here before.
If memory serves, the valve body has to come out and maybe the tailshaft as well. Sometimes people bend them while doing transmission work and they can be bent back to working again.
Did you first check to see if it was the cable or connection on the side of the transmission?
Warriorpluto
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No I didn't check. I'm assuming the worst right now. I'll get under the truck later and verify that it's in the correct position. Do you have a link on your post about it?
swathdiver
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No link, it wasn't that detailed. To do the work you ought to purchase a subscription to the shop manual from places like Mitchell or AllDataDIY.
As @swathdiver said, the actuator rod is probably damaged and can be removed/replaced without pulling the trans, but you may to need to pull the valve body to get access to one of the roll pins.
There was an update around 2008 to a stronger rod, so I would upgrade if necessary. The rivet on the end also gets damaged from being forced into park, so even with the updated rod you made need to replace it if it is damaged. But once you drop the pan it is visible.
There was an update around 2008 to a stronger rod, so I would upgrade if necessary. The rivet on the end also gets damaged from being forced into park, so even with the updated rod you made need to replace it if it is damaged. But once you drop the pan it is visible.
Warriorpluto
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Ok thanks alot. I'll try to get to it this weekend
Warriorpluto
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This rivet can be replaced easily as well?
livingez_123
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You might have enough to drop your Y pipe to get your pan to clear the exhaust. You might get luck and it will just clear with a little persuading of the pipe.
I have the detent spring removed here for visibility, so you can see the parking pawl engagement rod attached to the shift lever. You need remove the valve body, so that you can access the roll pins on the shifter shaft. One pin holds the shaft in the case and the other holds the internal arm to the shaft. Technically the 'pawl' itself should be fine, but the rod from the arm back to the pawl engagement is what is likely bad.
