Please help with my 2014 Tahoe LTZ brakes

[Noahangel11]

A vibration while braking can be caused by suspension components being worn. The strut being attached to the spindle that holds the hub bearing that the rotor is attached to can resonate the vibration throughout the vehicle from a worn suspension component. Don’t limit yourself to just focusing on brakes alone, check for play in ball joints, a-arm bushings, upper strut bearing plate and hub bearings themselves.

I inspected those components and That all seems tight

 

[Noahangel11]

I am suspecting bad rotors out of the box, or a sticking caliper

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Welcome to the Forum from NH.

Lots of knowledgeable folks here who freely share their knowledge, experiences, and perspectives. Knowledge is power.

I hope that you will become a participating member in the Forum's discussions.

Pics of the truck, please.

You are already receiving sage advice from the knowledgeable folks on this Forum.

 

[B-train]

All above info is good and relevant. I would speculate that since you had sticky pins, that they got too hot on the first drive. New pads don't really need to be run-in anymore (some specific brands will say if they do). As @Doubeleive stated, that is a good way to try and clean up any material that may have transferred.

Another thing to look at is the hub finish. If you have scaly corrosion on the face and don't clean it off, it can cause issues because the rotor doesn't sit true. Luckily based on the pics it looks like you got a box store painted brand? I would assume they will honor a 1 time replacement for vibration - just omit the frozen pin thing.

Lube the pins liberally, but make sure to use a pick to move the rubber seal and let the air put. If not, it can act as an air spring and keep pressure on the pads, not allowing for free wiggle room.

Try opening the bleeder on the caliper, then use channel locks to back the piston in. Note the ease of movement, or lack thereof, when retracting it. If its fails to go back somewhat easliky with good fluid flow from the bleeder, thats an indicator you may have a caliper that will stick.

Verify the piston boot isn't airbound either - small screw driver next to the boot will release the pressure. Hold caliper with bleeder upright and let fluid run until free of bubbles. Tap with small hammer as needed gently to encourage air to exit. Best to do with master cylinder cap off. You may have to do one or 2 pressure bleeds once reassembled if the pedal feels spongy.

 

[Noahangel11]

Update on this issue. The new rotors were out of spec. I had them turned and it resolved the issue. Thank you all for the advice

 

[Geotrash]

Thanks so much for following up! That's a huge help to all of us now and in the future.

 

[salisburyv]

where did you get the rotors? just so we can avoid/or be prepared for it. also, vibration in the brake pedal when braking typically means the rear rotors are out-of-round(warped) maybe they need to be cut, or replaced as well in the near future. it's funny to me, my truck goes thru rear brakes more than front. I'm accumulating the parts to do the 4 piston caliper upgrade on mine, the old front dual piston calipers fit on the back!!! i'm really diggin that!!

 

[Charlie207]

Update on this issue. The new rotors were out of spec. I had them turned and it resolved the issue. Thank you all for the advice

What parts did you use that were out of spec?