My99Yukon
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Four (4) KC HiLite Slimlite Install
I included the Amazon Links for more information if needed:
Two (2) KC HiLite Slimlite 130W Spots and
Two (2) KC HiLite Slimlite 100W Driving Lights
30Amp KC Rocker Switch
I had a single pair of the SlimLite 130W spots and when I was doing some of this engine and electrical work I discovered that some of the wires had nearly melted through. This was because the original wiring harness from KC HiLite had a tiny wire coming off the pigtail and the junction of the wires created resistance and heat and melting.
I contacted KC HiLite and they warrantied the lights and harness even though I had them on the Yukon for several years. I have no idea when it melted but I was thrilled that the manufacturer was so responsive with no questions asked. I pulled out the lights and wiring harness and switch, sent it back and had a brand new set of 130W spots with a re-engineered wiring harness and pigtails.
Since I was knee deep in wiring and I have never been able to see the sides of the road that well (even with the spots pointed slightly outward...deer and elk in AZ and CO scare the sh*t out of me when I'm rolling down the highway at 70 plus)...I decided to get some 100W driving lights, also SlimLite so they look identical, tuck nicely onto the bumper and were on sale so relatively inexpensive.
I had already fabbed some brackets and bolted directly to the bumper. I didn't want to drill any more holes so I bought some flat stock (L shaped), drilled some holes, painted and bolted back onto the bumper brackets. This actually made the brackets much stronger and more rigid so less vibration and eye fatigue. You can see the bar in the picture above.
I just installed and aimed and it is quite a wall of light. I will post a few pictures of the various combinations later. They are all on the toggle switch and the driving lights are only hot when the brights are on. That allows me to just have my OEM high beams and then toggle on the driving lights when I want.
The 130W spots are tied directly into the power coming off the alternator (fused, of course) so I can turn this on even when the main lights are off. Lots of lighting flexibility.
Center left is driving; center right is spot.; bottom left is backup; I will label them at some point but that is for another day.
I included the Amazon Links for more information if needed:
Two (2) KC HiLite Slimlite 130W Spots and
Two (2) KC HiLite Slimlite 100W Driving Lights
30Amp KC Rocker Switch
I had a single pair of the SlimLite 130W spots and when I was doing some of this engine and electrical work I discovered that some of the wires had nearly melted through. This was because the original wiring harness from KC HiLite had a tiny wire coming off the pigtail and the junction of the wires created resistance and heat and melting.
I contacted KC HiLite and they warrantied the lights and harness even though I had them on the Yukon for several years. I have no idea when it melted but I was thrilled that the manufacturer was so responsive with no questions asked. I pulled out the lights and wiring harness and switch, sent it back and had a brand new set of 130W spots with a re-engineered wiring harness and pigtails.
Since I was knee deep in wiring and I have never been able to see the sides of the road that well (even with the spots pointed slightly outward...deer and elk in AZ and CO scare the sh*t out of me when I'm rolling down the highway at 70 plus)...I decided to get some 100W driving lights, also SlimLite so they look identical, tuck nicely onto the bumper and were on sale so relatively inexpensive.
I had already fabbed some brackets and bolted directly to the bumper. I didn't want to drill any more holes so I bought some flat stock (L shaped), drilled some holes, painted and bolted back onto the bumper brackets. This actually made the brackets much stronger and more rigid so less vibration and eye fatigue. You can see the bar in the picture above.
I just installed and aimed and it is quite a wall of light. I will post a few pictures of the various combinations later. They are all on the toggle switch and the driving lights are only hot when the brights are on. That allows me to just have my OEM high beams and then toggle on the driving lights when I want.
The 130W spots are tied directly into the power coming off the alternator (fused, of course) so I can turn this on even when the main lights are off. Lots of lighting flexibility.
Center left is driving; center right is spot.; bottom left is backup; I will label them at some point but that is for another day.
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