Radiator is leaking

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Popeye

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I just noticed that the rad is leaking from the top pipe fitting (facing truck from front right hand side near the top). I see that it is corroded all round the connecting point. Is there anyway to repair this or is it a replacement situation.

If i need to replace it any suggestions which make cos i do see it ranging from $ 130 - $ 600.

and not too sure if 98 tahoe LS with factory tow package has a rad with the oil cooler. anyone?
 
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bowtiefreak

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it is 12 years old, chances are if it is corroded in one place there may be more you didn't see yet
 

retorq

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I think the OE had plastic tanks, mine does. It's not worth fixing ... get a new all aluminum piece. My 95 has the tow package, I have an oil cooler AND power steering cooler. Facing the truck form the front the right hand side is the oil cooler, the left is the tranny cooler. M power steering cooler is it's own stand alone piece up front ...
 

ncdrtyhoe

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My rad was leaking on the top drivers side (trans cooler) the rad shop could fix it for $120 but why do that when you can get a new one for $165. Very easy to install also.
 

TigerEyz3

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Devious_Tahoe96... Are you serious on the write-up request?

Drain coolant (often easier said than done - popcock can be hard to get loose)
Remove upper and lower fan shrouds
Remove fan/clutch (& water pump if needed)
Disconnect lower water hose
Disconnect trans/oil lines
Disconnect upper water hose
Extract old radiator (lifts out from top)
Install new radiator
Reconnect lines/hoses
Reinstall fan/clutch (& water pump if needed)
Reinstall fan shrouds
Fill tank with coolant
Start vehicle and let cycle to operating temp
Top off fluids as needed (this is to remove any air in the coolant system)
 
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Popeye

Popeye

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Tigereyz3 - Thanks (pics would have been nice, but this is a start)

i will give this a try some time in the coming months.
Prefered Radiator (vendors) that are recommended?
Prefered coolants to use?

I heard Alum, 2 or 3 core ..
 

TigerEyz3

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Sorry... no pics on the process. Once you get into it, you'll see it's a no-brainer. Nevertheless, PM me if you have questions along the way. Hardest part was getting the stop-**** to open - even to the point that I just pulled a hose to drain it. After it was out, I was able to get a better angle/grip and it worked alright. :-/

As far as suggestions...
  • if you do (or plan to do) any towing or off-roading, get the biggest rad with the most cores that will fit (I believe mine is a 3-core, but I've seen 4-core models online). Extra cooling capacity never hurt anyone. I'm also still running the plastic tank version - make your choice based to preference/availability...they all are just gonna keep ya cool and the all aluminum ones cost more. ;-)
  • you'll hear different people suggest different coolants based on what they've experienced/heard. I've run Dex-Cool (orange) since I bought it. No issues other than the customary intake gasket replacement from time to time. I've heard/read of folks switching over to the green coolant... just make sure you get ALL of the Dex-Cool out first - mixing the two is a no-no. If you're gonna completely drain and start over, I'd suggest going with the yellow coolant, which is safe to mix with either Dex-Cool or the green variety.
 

Biggwaukegan

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man this was a helpful post.. what brands shoulud we look for and how do you know how many cores are in a rad? thanks
 

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