Remove the fuse, test the draw. Make sure your amp clamp can read as low as. 01 miliamps. ( some clamps don't) because you could be reading ghost amps ( amps thats not really there/electrical noise from other components) my draw on my car for over a year has been 2.5 amps .. it was my radio snd my radio a amp. I decided not to track it Dien and just hook both up to relays with an online fuse. No more dead battery lol. I'd pull more fuses and even test the relays. Something is suspect.
You said remove the fuse and test the draw on the wires going to the radio. Well with the fuse removed the draw goes away. There is only a draw with the stock fuse in line and it doesn't matter if the radio is installed or uninstalled, which leads me to believe there are other components on the radio circuit....just don't have a schematic to determine what..
BTW - what relays should I check?
and how did you wire in additional relays?
Thanks again!
---------- Post added at 01:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:30 PM ----------
Oh, I forgot to mention that my airbag light is on, and a snap-on code reader can clear, but it comes back on after cycling the key...turns out to be a similar situation to a locked radio. The code states the BCM doesn't indentify with the airbag module.
What the heck GM? So now I need to get the airbag recoded by a GM dealer.
Why both the airbag and radio get locked when they have been with the truck since the factory?