Sam Harris
Supporting Member
Dammit!I think my pushrods are too short on my rebuild as well. Getting some valve train noise when its fully warm.
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Dammit!I think my pushrods are too short on my rebuild as well. Getting some valve train noise when its fully warm.
Dammit!
I think my pushrods are too short on my rebuild as well. Getting some valve train noise when its fully warm.
thats the part thats got me messed up, ive had the valvecovers off plenty of time and if a valve was on the base lobe they were loose, like real loose - maybe no lash but you could easily "jingle" the rocker side to side.
so i dont know, and never checked, if the pushrods were the right size because they assembled it as a longblock.
using the pushrods it used to be assembled with it was opening the valve before the rocker bolt was anywhere near 25ftlbs
officially i think you want to have .050-.075 of preload on the lifters, make sure youre on base lobe of cam
if you have a pushrod checker tool, you set the rocker up with 0 lash (up/down movement on the valve stem), side to side movement is ok. torque the rocker bolt to 25ft lbs. that would be zero lash with zero preload, add the preload to the pushrod measurement.
ive watched a handful of youtube videos (from actual engine builders not joe blows) and its fairly accurate with the actual pushrod youre going to use. set it up at zerolash (the rocker wont be seated on the head yet) and it should take less than 1 turn (360*) for the rocker arm bolt to reach 25 ft lbs. sweet spot being 1/2 to 3/4 turn
Thank you for the explanation. I think I can handle that