Randeez 2012 Budget Yukon Denali Build (stick on hood scoops galore)

[Geotrash]

welp last couple days have sucked.
trying to troubleshoot this pos. fuel trim -20% on one bank. swapped out some plugs, coils, wires, injectors. i've been literally just unplugging coils and injectors and the thing just keep running with hardly a blip to the rpm.

so i started tracing out all the wiring to verify the wiring for the injectors were goin to the right place.

apparently since the last time i had the intake off (i have to fold up harness basically to pull/install manifold) i had at least 2 injectors off maybe 3 (odd situation).

i think this may have been partially from using the wrong wiring diagram, so im using the gm outfitters wiring diagrams.
and hey all have a pink:

Injector 1 - TN has TN/BK *****
Injector 2 - GN/BK good
Injector 3 - PK/BK good
Injector 4 - BU/BK good
Injector 5 - TN/WH had YE/BK, moved to 6
Injector 6 - YE/BK had TN, moved to 5*****
Injector 7 - OG/BK good
Injector 8 - D-BU/WH good

so i swapped 5/6 injector plugs cause that is the obvious swap - i looked it over 20x to try and convince myself it was a TN/WH (tan with white stripe) but it doesnt. so technically the TN (tan) wire should go to cyl 1. i still need to find a TN/WH

that leads me to cyl 1:
it has a TN/BK (tan with black stripe) on it, which shouldnt be for any injectors.
The only TN/BK wires that should be in that harness from the ECM are for the high speed LAN (unlikely as they wouldnt be on the engine) , IAT sensor - this would have gone to the MAF sensor but i broke it out and installed it under the intercooler by itself so its unlikely that either and then I see a Low Reference - i dont have a full wiring diagram for 2012 but best i can find is a 2007, same ecm, but the low reference is for a few fuel components so im not sure about it either.

so plan is to remove all the harness from under the intake and sort it all out tomorrow


evening update:
Cooled down enough to pull the harness out, peeled all the tape and loom back off. some idiot extended the wires so i could run them behind the engine with almost the right color wire. 5 & 6 were swapped...injector 1 is good. no big deal, peace of mind is worth it.

Wow. Good catch! Before I read to the end I was gonna ask if you needed me to snap pics of my injector wires from my 2012 for you, but it sounds like you got it sorted.

 

[randeez]

Axle fixin. Rcvs were like 1/2 too long, as evident by them beating up the inner dust cap on both sides. One side seemed almost too "loose" as compared to a stock axle so I put a smaller spacer on driverside .40" I think is what they called it. After seeing it beat I pulled that out so that side was fine. Passenger side went in maybe a hair tighter than a stock axle but it also beat up the dust cap with no spacer. So I had hoped taking the spacer out of one side I would be able to move or slide the whole diff over and make room for both, but it's pretty well jammed in there, would have to elongate holes and crap. So option 2...get a new axle shaft or cut this one down. Worst case I ruin it andddd I need a shaft anyway.


And im starting back up the tuning chronicals. I think I've been running it on 7 cylinders for a while so it's all messed up. Startup does this weird thing where it commands rich as hell like 5 seconds in and usually dies.i usually just tap the pedal and it stays running but it's annoying.

 

[iamdub]

NB4 too long of shaft/beat the bottom out of it/just the tip jokes

 

[randeez]

NB4 too long of shaft/beat the bottom out of it/just the tip jokes

My shafts are incredibly hard, I had the bandsaw on there for like 30mins straight to get thru there

 

[pwtr02ss]

Hope that's the ticket for you. Ready for some new pics of the beast...idling perfect and out and about

 

[randeez]

Hope that's the ticket for you. Ready for some new pics of the beast...idling perfect and out and about

it wasnt shit still makes some vibration/noise at anything over 70mph.last couple weeks its only had axle in one side and shit rides smooth and quiet.
even after rebuild it still had "some' movement more than id like but like a 1/4 of what it was so was hopeful
will probably just put stock axle with spacers in it just to 100% confirm its that pos. pretty frickin annoying

idle tuning sucks. and my startup is really messed up lol. noticed my wideband o2 is saying opposite of what narrow bands show for correction. so going to make corrections off of it for a few rounds and see if its any better

 

[pwtr02ss]

it wasnt shit still makes some vibration/noise at anything over 70mph.last couple weeks its only had axle in one side and shit rides smooth and quiet.
even after rebuild it still had "some' movement more than id like but like a 1/4 of what it was so was hopeful
will probably just put stock axle with spacers in it just to 100% confirm its that pos. pretty frickin annoying

idle tuning sucks. and my startup is really messed up lol. noticed my wideband o2 is saying opposite of what narrow bands show for correction. so going to make corrections off of it for a few rounds and see if its any better

Dammit man.

 

[randeez]

Dammit man.

the shoemaker's shoes or something

I am thinking the problem is exhaust "leaks" and the way its routed and the location of the o2s. putting it into open loop it seems to idle fine, which i need to make corects via the wideband - the exhaust leaks are still there though, cleaned up the startup pretty good- just needs to be started at a few different temps to get the table cut in. the flex joints im using are the double slip joints, where it relies on the exhaust heat to expand the inner pipe inside the middle pipe, inside the outside pipe.

pos axle, its still in there, like i said its fine cruising around town. however to go anywhere i gotta jump on highway and do 70+, gonna end up throwing a stock axle/spacers in that side and fuggit.

 

[pwtr02ss]

the shoemaker's shoes or something

I am thinking the problem is exhaust "leaks" and the way its routed and the location of the o2s. putting it into open loop it seems to idle fine, which i need to make corects via the wideband - the exhaust leaks are still there though, cleaned up the startup pretty good- just needs to be started at a few different temps to get the table cut in. the flex joints im using are the double slip joints, where it relies on the exhaust heat to expand the inner pipe inside the middle pipe, inside the outside pipe.

pos axle, its still in there, like i said its fine cruising around town. however to go anywhere i gotta jump on highway and do 70+, gonna end up throwing a stock axle/spacers in that side and fuggit.

Well, at least you found the issue. Can you move the o2 sensor and correct that? I know you'll get the start up right...

 

[randeez]

Well, at least you found the issue. Can you move the o2 sensor and correct that? I know you'll get the start up right...

yea by redoing the turbo kit.... ignoring it is much easy