Don’t think about your cats, they’re fine. That monitor takes the longest to reset. All those steps are just a suggestion, normal driving for a few days to a week will put the vehicle in all of those ‘parameters’.
It will reset, give a few more days of drive cycles. Drive cycle meaning cold start and take a normal drive.
When I originally put my range on my 13 I never thought about it causing a fail inspection and pulled it right before I went for an inspection.
Realizing I’m a moron, I drove around for another week without it and got it passed.
Not sure if it was mentioned but NY you can have 1 (or 2??) monitors not ready and pass.
I went through this with my fil’s pos 02 suzuki aerio just last summer because I let the battery die. I drove around for 4 days before work, got them all ready except 1 or 2 and went and passed.
good luck on your ‘quest’
Thanks for your experience on this, I really appreciate you posting it.
I will say, I wasn’t getting ready to put new cats in the budget yet. , actually I was just reporting what GM said it might require more trips than the one, if the cats were weak.
What I am actually trying to get at, other than filling in as many blanks as possible on how the Range device affects emissions readiness, is to minimize how much driving around I do in AFM mode (Range device out) every couple of years, resetting the flags before getting tested.
One of my concerns with using the Range device is my bi-annual emissions test. Specifically, what concerns me is a VLOM charged with oil that is not flowing for like 700+ heat cycles and then expected to work perfectly through the galleys and solenoids of the VLOM, delivering its uniform oil pressure with precise timing to the AFM lifter.
Likely this concern is born out of ignorance on my part with how the VLOM works and how the AFM lifters fail, as all I have ever read on the subject was that AFM lifter failures were usually related to timing issues in the VLOM setup. I could see a gummed up VLOM, causing timing errors when my week of driving around comes up and seeing an AFM lifter failure, caused by the very device that was charged to eliminate the risk.
In the end, I seriously doubt I will know every detail of how these things work. But if I know a lot more “for sure” and not just internet opinions (like the notion I picked up that Tow Mode might get me through the whole flag reset cycle, without ever seeing the dreaded V4 on the DIC), then honestly, I will probably consider time well spent.
My penchant for posting all this stuff is just that it helps build a stronger knowledge base for all on the myths versus realities of how these things actually work.
Some fun.
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