Rear hatch won't unlock/lock

[electro]

Hi guys, it's 9pm and I just realized my rear hatch it stuck in unlocked position, well it was but than I used a small slot and closed the locks and now my hatch won't seal.

Lock mechanism? I'm getting out the Haynes as I type this and I'm going to remove rear plastic covering from hatch.

I just need to lock this baby up for the night. All me tools are inside the truck.

Any quick fixes?

I've never had to deal with the locks before.

Thanks,
Ryan

---------- Post added at 09:40 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:07 PM ----------

Update:

I removed trim panels.

When I press unlock / lock, my mechanism moves but the latches to do not.

---------- Post added at 09:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:40 PM ----------



---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 PM ----------

The actuator moves.

The push release for the glass was loose from its position

I think there's a spring return in the push button release that is not pulling the inner shaft back.

---------- Post added at 10:01 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 PM ----------

So, the actuator moves on command (ie. when I press lock/unlock).

IT WOULD THE ISSUE IS WITH THE PUSH BUTTON RELEASE FOR THE GLASS HATCH.

In the below picture, the push button release is in the returned position.



In the below picture the push button release is not returning. As if internally the "spring return" is damaged.

 

[Red_Raider]

I had the same thing happen to me, but it wouldn't unlock. I did some searching on the Internet and found a post about the similar thing. Come to find out it was from the new handle I had put on. I just messed around with the tension lines until it was functioning correctly.

Here's the link to the article I read:

http://www.chefseattle.com/blog/site-news/suburban-rear-liftgate-wont-unlock-how-to-fix/

 

[electro]

Haha sweet. Thanks man. I read that article as well last night while trying to fix it.

Ultimately I think ill need a new keyed push button lock/unlock mechanism.

I may buy one and than try to repair mine. I'm confident I just need a new spring or reseat the existing spring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

 

[Vette66]

Had this exact same problem. Look at this pic. I took a zip screw, the type with a drill bit end, and a bracket made of springy steel really thin. I bent it so it would work but push it back into place. Been working great for 2 months. Saved $120 for new keyed lock and rekeying. The problem with these is there is a clip inside and over time they get loose GM doesn't sell the clip you have to buy the whole thing. Key and non-keyed are different. That article I believe talks about non-keyed.

If you want I can make a short video of this working if you don't quite get what I did.

 

[Vette66]

I made a video anyway so if anybody else is wondering. I had also already popped the hatch glass so you don't hear that click in the video.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FpPJklIu62A

[yt]FpPJklIu62A[/yt]

 

[electro]

Video won't load on my iPad.

The dealer wants $300 plus tax for the cylinder and another $35 to code it.

I'll try on my comp for the vid. I think I see what you did though. Basically made a retainer for it? Looks good.

---------- Post added at 10:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:51 PM ----------

Okay, went on comp, I see what you did. Makes sense. I like it. I'm going to do something just like that than, just need to find me a nice spring metal.

---------- Post added at 10:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:52 PM ----------

Here in Canada, I call those tek screws or self drillers, and I always get a Robertson head! Haha, I don't like Philips quite as much...

Do you use Robertson often?

 

[Vette66]

[/COLOR]Here in Canada, I call those tek screws or self drillers, and I always get a Robertson head! Haha, I don't like Philips quite as much...

Do you use Robertson often?

Drill head screws is what the box says but depending on where you get them they can be called Drill heads, self tapping, zip screws, drill bit heads, ect...

We don't use Robertson head (square) screws much here. Mostly Philips and the standard flat head (slot head, ect) Flat head are junk wish they would ban them form being made and switch to a Square - Philips standard.

 

[electro]

Well, Ive had the plastic off the tailgate for a month now. I haven't really solved the problem with the actuator not returning I've just made it more accessible with the plastic trim off. I can just reach in push it back to its spot.

HOWEVER... A new problem has arisen. The hatch needs to be slammed to get it to latch.

but with any significant bump or jolt it will simply unlatch.

PITA!!!

Any tips on how to restore some functionality here.. Thanks!