Rear Main Seal job, Pan, etc - 07 Yukon Denali 6.2

[donjetman]

AWD Transfer Case Removed Today

Once the tranny cross member is out, the tail shaft of the transfer case can be lowered until it rest on the non-removable mid cross member. At the same time the engine oil pan comes close to touching the cross member under it. This tail shaft low attitude makes it easier to get the top nut loose(15mm crows foot) of the six nuts that hold the transfer case to the tranny, take the vent lines loose, and it will make it easier to remove the upper bolts/nuts that hold the tranny to the engine. To get the TC off the tranny, take the weight off the tail shaft with jacks under both the tranny and TC. The pictures show what type jacks I use. Smack the tail shaft with a dead blow hammer the TC will come loose from the tranny.

The tranny was working fine, so I'm NOT going to rebuild it now.
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[buddyhotrod]

That’s a nice set up.

Congrats

If you’re going to do the rear seal might as well knock it all out while you’re that deep into it.

Front seal, rear seal, oil pan gasket, timing chain, timing cover gasket, new oil pump.

I did the new gaskets for one of my Tahoe’s and for my nieces suburban.
Each time I also replaced all of the exhaust manifold bolts with studs.

 

[donjetman]

Her's a good video on removing a 6L80 tranny from a 2011 Surburban 4x4

The guy in the video makes it look easy. It probably is if you have the right tools. I found out that I didn't. 1) My air racket was to weak to loosen the 15mm torque converter bolts that are locktite to the converter from the factory. Nothing else I own would do the job either. There not much room. So I went to HF and got a small 1/2" drive air racket(see picture-$115) and a ball and socket type universal joint(see picture-$8)
View media item 27405In the video notice how difficult is is to get to all the upper bell housing bolts/nuts. It's gonna be near impossible to get them back on

 

[Rocket Man]

Her's a good video on removing a 6L80 tranny from a 2011 Surburban 4x4

The guy in the video makes it look easy. It probably is if you have the right tools. I found out that I didn't. 1) My air racket was to weak to loosen the 15mm torque converter bolts that are locktite to the converter from the factory. Nothing else I own would do the job either. There not much room. So I went to HF and got a small 1/2" drive air racket(see picture-$115) and a ball and socket type universal joint(see picture-$8)
View media item 27405In the video notice how difficult is is to get to all the upper bell housing bolts/nuts. It's gonna be near impossible to get them back on

The ones on my 4l60 were hard to get to also, I used about a 4’ entension. If you tilt the engine as far as possible it helps.

 

[donjetman]

I removed a heat shield that's between the driver side exhaust manifold and the firewall then I dropped the tranny. The oil leak was from the rear main seal and a couple of other places around the cover.

Next step is the oil pan gasket.
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[Erickk120]

I really hope doorman rear main seals are as good as fel pro or better. I would cry having to do it twice, I said never to doorman seals after having to do my pinion seal and having it leak on me a week later, could have been a fluke but I was scarred for life after having to do it twice. I made sure to never repeat that mistake and bought me a Yukon seal, Haven't had a problem since.

 

[donjetman]

Eric, anything is better than what GM put in there.

I got the oil pan cleaned up and painted and ready to reinstall. Installed a new oil cooler adapter gasket Felpro#72462, a new oil pump pickup tube o-ring Felpro# 72401, a oil pressure relief valve deflector GM# 24237531, oil pan gasket GM# 12612350, and Dorman# 635-518 rean main seal kit.
While I'm there, I'm gonna change the tranny pump seal that the torque converter snout goes thru GM# 24237531.
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[Rocket Man]

Eric, anything is better than what GM put in there.

I got the oil pan cleaned up and painted and ready to reinstall. Installed a new oil cooler adapter gasket Felpro#72462, a new oil pump pickup tube o-ring Felpro# 72401, a oil pressure relief valve deflector GM# 24237531, oil pan gasket GM# 12612350, and Dorman# 635-518 rean main seal kit.
While I'm there, I'm gonna change the tranny pump seal that the torque converter snout goes thru GM# 24237531.
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GM OE is quality, so I don’t know why you’d say that. Personally, Dorman has its place in my book but not for anything that’s difficult to get to. The quality of that brand is not great. If it’s not too late, I highly recommend using any brand other than Dorman for something as critical as a rear main seal. I’d sure hate to see that leaking again in a few months considering all the work it takes to get to it. I made sure to use AC Delco when I did mine. The original lasted 150,000 miles and still wasn’t leaking when I replaced it.

 

[donjetman]

Started putting it back together today. New trans cooler lines installed, AFM oil deflector installed on the AFM pressure relief valve, new oil cooler adapter gasket, new oil pan gasket and got the pan on.
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[Erickk120]

How hard was it to take the tranny out? You are motivating to do mine, I just hate the idea of getting the transfer case and tranny out, I have all the seals and what not, I just need to find my will.