I just got my baby back from a local Charlotte engine builder with spec'd cam, overbore, headwork, dyno-tune, etc. When I asked the builder what oil he'd recommend with my new engine he said to use Conventional oil, 1030W. Hmmmm.... Do any of you have reason to choose something different?
Rebuilt 5.3, what oil should I use?
- Thread starter Streborel
- Start date
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Charlie207
Full Access Member
What kind of lifters did he install in the engine?
He might be recommending conventional 10w-30 for the extra zinc?
On that note, I hear Valvoline VR1 is good for that purpose, but in reality you can probably run any modern oil that you want. Ask him why he's specifying 10w.
He might be recommending conventional 10w-30 for the extra zinc?
On that note, I hear Valvoline VR1 is good for that purpose, but in reality you can probably run any modern oil that you want. Ask him why he's specifying 10w.
strutaeng
Full Access Member
Are you asking about break-in oil?
The Driven break-in oil has really good reviews. That's what I used on my engine rebuild. I think I ran it for like 650 miles, with regular driving use (light throttle, medium throttle, a few WOT pulls, highway, city, avoid excessive idling.) Then switched to regular synthetic that I run on my other vehicles.
The Driven break-in oil has really good reviews. That's what I used on my engine rebuild. I think I ran it for like 650 miles, with regular driving use (light throttle, medium throttle, a few WOT pulls, highway, city, avoid excessive idling.) Then switched to regular synthetic that I run on my other vehicles.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10631-supplement-additional/dp/B00INXYZH0
Check with the builder first, but here you go.
Check with the builder first, but here you go.
Just Fishing
Can't fix stupid
Or the VR1 option,
oil is such a crazy deep rabbit hole.
on one note, you can definitely find a weight and brand oil with a additive pack that works best for your engine but in the same breath you can also use the entirely wrong oil and as along as you change it every 3k-5k the will probably never fail from oil related issues. (there are some crazy new tech spray on cylinder wall plating that are very oil specific, but I doubt any of us will deal with that. some motorcycle engines and high end exotics)
same for filters, some are definitely better than others, but ones that rank low on the list are still used all the time without engine failure.
10w30 conventional for the first few changes while breaking in sounds reasonable to me. after that switch to a synthetic if you want and weight based on oil pressure and climate. if he built it to say common specs bearing clearance wise, 0.002 ish and you don't live up north where you'll be cranking at 0deg Temps, chasing a 5w oil isn't going to save you much if anything.
the only other than I'd say is if you have cats still, using a dextos 1 or 2 oil is said to be better for the cats. Basically these newer engines did away with old school pvc valves and without adding a catch can they eat oil like crazy, gm doesn't blink at a qt burned between changes, so to keep cats alive for 100k miles they needed a oil spec that didn't hurt them. if you don't have cats or have added a catch can, it's probably not a real world issue either. but some of the high zinc racing oils may be. probably an extra expense that's not needed either unless you're running track days or something.
on one note, you can definitely find a weight and brand oil with a additive pack that works best for your engine but in the same breath you can also use the entirely wrong oil and as along as you change it every 3k-5k the will probably never fail from oil related issues. (there are some crazy new tech spray on cylinder wall plating that are very oil specific, but I doubt any of us will deal with that. some motorcycle engines and high end exotics)
same for filters, some are definitely better than others, but ones that rank low on the list are still used all the time without engine failure.
10w30 conventional for the first few changes while breaking in sounds reasonable to me. after that switch to a synthetic if you want and weight based on oil pressure and climate. if he built it to say common specs bearing clearance wise, 0.002 ish and you don't live up north where you'll be cranking at 0deg Temps, chasing a 5w oil isn't going to save you much if anything.
the only other than I'd say is if you have cats still, using a dextos 1 or 2 oil is said to be better for the cats. Basically these newer engines did away with old school pvc valves and without adding a catch can they eat oil like crazy, gm doesn't blink at a qt burned between changes, so to keep cats alive for 100k miles they needed a oil spec that didn't hurt them. if you don't have cats or have added a catch can, it's probably not a real world issue either. but some of the high zinc racing oils may be. probably an extra expense that's not needed either unless you're running track days or something.
