rebuilt transfer case and differential...now what?

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gardenrose

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Over a year ago my 1999 tahoe started making a "clunking" noise when I would take off from a stop(at a stop sign). Last year it started making a grinding noise when I would turn the wheels right and left. Then eventually it was grinding all the time and it felt like it was stuck in 4 wheel drive. I think I was getting about 3 or 4 miles to the gallon. We took it to an automotive shop and they said we needed a new transfer case and that it would cost about $2500.00. We could not afford that so we parked it for almost a year until we had the money. So finally my husband found a Mr Transmission in Canada (we live in the US near the border) that would rebuild it for $950.00 if we took it out and put it back in. So we did. When we got it back the yoke was missing and had to send it back for them to find the right yoke. They then said they rebuilt it with the wrong shaft and would have to rebuild it. Then they said our yoke was bad and charged us another $150.00 for a used yoke.

We put in new plugs and wires, oil and filters and an actuator while we waited for the rebuild.

After it was re-installed after the rebuild the grinding noise was still there. My husband said he was not taking it out again and that it was worth it to pay someone to do it. We took it back to the auto shop that wanted $2500.00 and they said that our differential was bad also and that they could put in a rebuilt one for $882.00. So we had that done. Now the grinding noise is gone when I turn left or right and as long as I'm in 2 wheel drive, but there is a grinding noise when we put it in 4 wheel drive. We took it back to the same auto shop that did the differential and told them whats going on they said it sounds like its the transfer case and that we should call the Mr Transmission guy back that did the work. But they also said they've had problems with the same Mr. Transmission in the past.
We called Mr. Transmission and told them what was going on. They said they would pick up the whole tahoe and look it over. They then called and said that it looked like it was the 4 wheel drive switch because they tested it out and there was no power going to the imploder motor. They then wanted more money to change that out. When I questioned him about the switch he said that it would not go into 4 wheel drive and that the switch was not working at all. It may have been going bad and start to send signal to the transfer case then kick off so the worm gear would only engage part way, and that's why we are hearing a grinding noise. I Explained to him that it was working just fine when we dropped it off. He started getting angry so I told him to just bring it back. We now have the Tahoe back and of course the switch does not work at all and the neutral switch light comes on now and then. So we changed the switch. $98.00 later and its doing the same thing. So we crawled under to make sure all the connections were tight and found that Mr. Transmission pulled all the wires out of the plastic wire housing and cut the plastic around a red wire, and everything that holds the wires up are gone also.

So, what do you think? Do we need to have the transfer case rebuilt again? Could the used imploder motor they put on be the problem? Maybe a sensor or module somewhere?
The auto shop said to bring it over and they would crack it open and see whats going on with the transfer case and that they would work with us. After putting over $2500.00 in to it in the last month we really just don't have much more money to put into it and may have to do it our self or wait till we have the money.

Thanks
Rose
 

ktmhans

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Is this an obs or nbs? Sorry 99 could go either way. If its a 99 their are parts trucks all over the place and i would just go scrap yard parts. Nbs can be a little more pricy. If you pulled the diff and tc and reinstalled it yourself sucessfully? You should be able to figure this out.
Start by driving it and tske good notes while driveing in 2 and 4. You can pull the front driveshaft and run it in 4 and see if it still makes a noise. Also try it with the front actuator plugged and plugged in.

Sand/snow works well if ya got any around get someone outside and put in 4 and spin tires, make sure there really in 4x4.

Sometimes putting it up on 4 jack stands. Be safe and be carefull, us caution. Maybe a pair of ears on those stethiscopes you could isolate the grinding.
You know the u joints are good.

The gears for the front diff match the gears for the rear diff?
When you drain the oild out of both areas, run the oil threw a coffee filter or something, glass bottle. One of the 2 should have some shavings or something.

Good luck, dont throw a buck at it till ya figure it out.
 

Freedom Motorsports

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Welcome to the neighborhood!

Did anyone inspect the hub bearings? When the hub bearings go bad they will make a grinding noise you can actually feel in your feet and hands while driving and if they are bad enough they can pop and grind worse when turning. Was the transfer case leaking fluid anywhere before the issue started? IF they have pump rub failure it is possible that the t-case needed rebuilt. But, if not, they rarely just have problems without being abused. When maintained they are very reliable. The hub bearings on the other hand are known for being a weak link that could cause the same symtoms.

If the wiring was chopped up by the transmission shop, I would have to do something about that. The transmission shop should be liable for damage leading from their "repairs". But with your shop being in Canada, I am unsure what the legal obligations would be there.

What you need to do at this point is get someone to obtain a wiring diagram for your harness so that you can put that/those plugs back together. Making sure that everything is as it should be in the first place is the goal. IF your husband removed and reinstalled the unit himself, then he should be able to accomplish putting the wiring back together. Then go from there.

I can probably get that diagram for you Monday, but someone else here may be able to get it for you sooner.
 

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