992dr
Full Access Member
Bummer. Pretty sure I saw them for the NBS.
Yeah, not sure why they aren't available for NNBS yet. Would make life a lot easier hahaha
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Bummer. Pretty sure I saw them for the NBS.
Confused here:
Started from 2007 model, the upper control arm and ball joints are integrated, the ball joint can NOT be replaced. If only replace the bushings, how long could the ball joint last?
Also, the whole upper control is around $40, why not just replace whole upper control arm as one piece?
I never heard of alignment bushings. I knew there were alignment cams shaped to provide additional adjustment over the stock ones. Have a link to these bushings?
The bushings are a simple way to get the needed adjustments for a 4" or so drop.
Cam plates will help with going lower than 4" along with the alignment bushings. There's a lot more involved when installing the cam plates though.
I sure do
Here's the installation instructions for the bushings http://www.belltech.com/extras/docs/BBGC/4955.pdf
Here's the instructions for the cam plates http://www.belltech.com/extras/docs/BBGC/4951.pdf
Thank you!
I'm planning a 3" front drop with spindles and coil relocators and I'll never go lower than 4" total. Since the suspension will only "see" 1-2" of drop (with the springs lowered), I may not even need anything special for proper alignment. If I do, I'm leaning towards the cam plates since the metalworking involved seems much easier to me than having to press out/in bushings. I have all the metalworking tools I need, but I don't have a press (yet) and certainly don't have the GM bushing adapters. I'll be installing new control arms that come with new ball joints and bushings when I drop it. With my luck, I'd damage the control arm(s) trying to replace the bushings. I could screw up an anvil.
What are coil relocators? Are you talking about adjustable struts?
You could bring the bushings to a shop and they would remove/install the bushings. I brought mine to a dealer down the street from me, the lead tech said he wouldn't charge me anything but to give the mechanic who did the work a few bucks.
You may want to wait until you do your drop before doing either the bushings or cam plates. You're right, you may not have to do anything. Like you, I have all the metal working tools and will probably install my cam plates when I do my drop "just incase" I decide to go lower.
If you do decide to go with the bushings. You don't need the BT specific tool. All you need is a large socket that will clear the outer bushing plates.
Hahaha, too funny. Trust me, you couldn't damage the control arms. I beat on them for roughly 30 minutes with my impact. You'll more than likely damage the bushings before causing any harm to the control arms. Like I did haha. That's why I ordered another set.
The coils rest on seats that are part of cylinders that slip around the shock body. The relocators are the same thing, but the cylinder is longer which lowers the position of the seat on the shock body, which lowers the vehicle. Here's a pic of a relocator installed on an OEM strut (there are spacers used on this one to raise the seat position to lessen the drop) :
These are the relocators and spacers that replace the OEM coil locators/seats:
There are adjustable struts that have threaded bodies that you spin the seat around to raise or lower the seat position to adjust the amount of drop or lift. You can adjust the drop or lift virtually indefinitely within their range of adjustment. The relocators I'd be using and what is in the above pic uses spacers to adjust the drop in 1/2" increments. The relocators with no spacers yields a 2" drop, with one spacer is 1.5" drop, with both spacers is a 1" drop.
Yeah, I think I'll wait and see if I'll need any further alignment adjustability. Removing and working on/around the UCA is easy and doesn't require messing with the spring or strut.