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doomsquadshawty

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I am installing all new speakers and a 5CH Amp in my 2007 Tahoe. I plan on mounting it in place of the stock sub-woofer. I am am wondering can I just remove the Bose amp or will I lose functionality of a lot of things? I have an aftermarket head unit that is wired through a https://pac-audio.com/catalog/radio-replacement/rp5-gm31 to the stock system right now. So i'm just wondering could I remove it or is it best to just leave in place?
 

Tim Quigley

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I had my 12 all redone, I have a kenwood deck and kicker speakers and tweeters with a 10in kicker truck box sub. I have a 600w 4 channel amp running the speakers and tweeters with a 500w amp for the sub.
 

iamdub

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I am installing all new speakers and a 5CH Amp in my 2007 Tahoe. I plan on mounting it in place of the stock sub-woofer. I am am wondering can I just remove the Bose amp or will I lose functionality of a lot of things? I have an aftermarket head unit that is wired through a https://pac-audio.com/catalog/radio-replacement/rp5-gm31 to the stock system right now. So i'm just wondering could I remove it or is it best to just leave in place?

If your 2007 Bose amp is not a LUX version, you should be ok to bypass just the audio part. The LUX version digitally adjusts the volume, so it's not so easy. The Bose amp controls the warning tones, turn signal "tocks", etc. so removing it would cause you to lose them. Last I researched this, the way to do it is to disconnect the four audio channels going to the Bose amp FROM the PAC interface. So, while you have your console apart to remove the factory sub, you would cut the eight audio signal wires from the harness and solder or crimp RCAs to the ends. Then you could plug the factory wires with the RCAs on them straight to the 5-channel amp you're mounting under there. If your HU and amp controls the sub level separately ("bass knob"), you would just run an independent pair of RCAs from the HU down to the sub input of the amp.

I found a list of which wires were the speaker signals a couple years ago but it was for an '07 or '08 Silverado LTZ. I assumed the wires would be the same but I was gonna confirm later when I was actually working on this project. Maybe someone with access to factory wire schematics could pinpoint this for you/us.
 
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doomsquadshawty

doomsquadshawty

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If your 2007 Bose amp is not a LUX version, you should be ok to bypass just the audio part. The LUX version digitally adjusts the volume, so it's not so easy. The Bose amp controls the warning tones, turn signal "tocks", etc. so removing it would cause you to lose them. Last I researched this, the way to do it is to disconnect the four audio channels going to the Bose amp FROM the PAC interface. So, while you have your console apart to remove the factory sub, you would cut the eight audio signal wires from the harness and solder or crimp RCAs to the ends. Then you could plug the factory wires with the RCAs on them straight to the 5-channel amp you're mounting under there. If your HU and amp controls the sub level separately ("bass knob"), you would just run an independent pair of RCAs from the HU down to the sub input of the amp.

I found a list of which wires were the speaker signals a couple years ago but it was for an '07 or '08 Silverado LTZ. I assumed the wires would be the same but I was gonna confirm later when I was actually working on this project. Maybe someone with access to factory wire schematics could pinpoint this for you/us.
I don't have warning tones or turn signal ticks. My PAC came with a chime module that i didnt install, im guessing this is why. Since i have a Kenwood head unit cant i just connect the rca to the preamp outputs on the headunit instead of tapping off the speaker wire?
 

iamdub

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I don't have warning tones or turn signal ticks. My PAC came with a chime module that i didnt install, im guessing this is why. Since i have a Kenwood head unit cant i just connect the rca to the preamp outputs on the headunit instead of tapping off the speaker wire?


If you're not concerned about keeping the tones (obviously since you don't have them in the first place), then sure, run RCAs from the HU to your new amp. Of course, you'd have to run speaker wires from your amp to each door, but I'm sure you already knew and were planning that.

I don't know if you'd be able to completely remove the amp from the system as there may be other things it controls. All you'd have to do is unplug the amp and see what happens- test the radio for key on/off operation, RAPS function (key off but radio on then open your door to see if it shuts off), etc. IIRC, there are two plugs going to it.

I could use that chime module if you don't have a use for it.
 

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