Removing Ignition Lock Cylinder Without a Key, Without Drilling, And Without Damage!

[Jason in DLH]

So a few days ago I went about an easy fix. To simply replace the old and worn ignition lock cylinder. First attempt...FAIL! Recoded the new cylinder to match the old key (or so I thought) and when I placed it into the ignition it was stuck. Tried everything I could think of to remove it and ended up drilling it out (definitely need Cobalt bits and cutting oil for metal by the way). Read on for a much better way than drilling! I thought perhaps it was because I purchased an aftermarket cylinder that it didn’t work, so tonight I finally received the GM cylinder and re-coded this new one to match my old key (or so I thought again!). Put it in and got stuck AGAIN! I still had my old cylinder and took a much better look at the numbers and apparently my eyesight is horrible since I thought a 5 was a 3 and finally realized I had the wrong darn code. This time I played around with tie wire and the old cylinder and realized I can unlock the cylinder with tie wire. I used pliers to close the wire a bit (still had a small rounded end) and twisted the end so that I could turn it. I used my left hand to turn the plastic part while I turned the wire with my right and I could turn it to the on position thereby allowing me to remove the cylinder. I then changed that darn #3 to a #5 and she works like a charm! I hope this helps someone so they don’t spend so much time drilling and ruining a perfectly good cylinder like I did! Well...on to my clockspring (we’ll see what I wreck next)...

 

[Joseph Garcia]

Thank you for sharing your experience. Much appreciated. Our collective knowledge base is increased.

 

[DougAMiller]

So a few days ago I went about an easy fix. To simply replace the old and worn ignition lock cylinder. First attempt...FAIL! Recoded the new cylinder to match the old key (or so I thought) and when I placed it into the ignition it was stuck. Tried everything I could think of to remove it and ended up drilling it out (definitely need Cobalt bits and cutting oil for metal by the way). Read on for a much better way than drilling! I thought perhaps it was because I purchased an aftermarket cylinder that it didn’t work, so tonight I finally received the GM cylinder and re-coded this new one to match my old key (or so I thought again!). Put it in and got stuck AGAIN! I still had my old cylinder and took a much better look at the numbers and apparently my eyesight is horrible since I thought a 5 was a 3 and finally realized I had the wrong darn code. This time I played around with tie wire and the old cylinder and realized I can unlock the cylinder with tie wire. I used pliers to close the wire a bit (still had a small rounded end) and twisted the end so that I could turn it. I used my left hand to turn the plastic part while I turned the wire with my right and I could turn it to the on position thereby allowing me to remove the cylinder. I then changed that darn #3 to a #5 and she works like a charm! I hope this helps someone so they don’t spend so much time drilling and ruining a perfectly good cylinder like I did! Well...on to my clockspring (we’ll see what I wreck next)...
View attachment 259457View attachment 259458

I'm sorry, I don't understand how the wire unlocked the cylinder for you. Were you using the wire like a lock pick rake to set the tumblers while turning the plastic part to provide the tension for holding them?

 

[Jason in DLH]

I'm sorry, I don't understand how the wire unlocked the cylinder for you. Were you using the wire like a lock pick rake to set the tumblers while turning the plastic part to provide the tension for holding them?

 

[Jason in DLH]

So here’s a picture of the entire tie wire I used:



I simply used it the same way I would with a normal key (except I needed to help the cylinder turn with my left hand) in until I was able to stick a small Allen wrench in the small hole to actually remove the cylinder from the steering column. Maybe I simply lucked out and the wire was in the perfect shape in order to push all those little metal things into the cylinder all the way thereby allowing me to turn it. Did that help?

 

[DougAMiller]

So here’s a picture of the entire tie wire I used:

View attachment 259476

I simply used it the same way I would with a normal key (except I needed to help the cylinder turn with my left hand) in until I was able to stick a small Allen wrench in the small hole to actually remove the cylinder from the steering column. Maybe I simply lucked out and the wire was in the perfect shape in order to push all those little metal things into the cylinder all the way thereby allowing me to turn it. Did that help?

I believe you, I just don't see how that worked, unless like you said, you just happened to have the right shape in the wire. That seems highly unlikely though, especially on a new cylinder that hasn't had any play worn into it yet.

 

[exp500]

Glad someone else noticed too. I suggest try to turn lock cyl without key to test success.

 

[OR VietVet]

What you call "tie wire" we used to call "mechanic's wire".

 

[George B]

What you call "tie wire" we used to call "mechanic's wire".

AKA... muffler wire

 

[OR VietVet]

AKA... muffler wire

Yea, that's pretty much where it got it's start. Tying up exhaust as it sagged from rusting out or exhaust hangers breaking.