A couple of reasons why the tool is better than a C-clamp:
A) It was designed for the job. There is a LOT of spring tension in the torsion bars - the tool was engineered to hold that pressure in check while you unload the bars.
B) More gripping surface area on the cross member. The tool hooks onto BOTH sides of the crossmember, giving you a more sturdy setup to work off of. The likelyhood of it slipping off is pretty low.
If you're using a C-clamp and it either fractures or slips off the crossmember, all of that tension will unload somewhere. More than likely into your hand or arm. At the very least it would severely **** up whatever tools are attached to the bolt when it goes.
Plenty of guys get away with doing it with C-clamps, but I'd rather use the right tools for the job and minimize the chances of getting hurt.
Look at Ty...I hate using my dude as an example, but he shattered his arm simply due to the fact that he was rushing and not using the proper safety stuff when he was changing his rear springs out.
A) It was designed for the job. There is a LOT of spring tension in the torsion bars - the tool was engineered to hold that pressure in check while you unload the bars.
B) More gripping surface area on the cross member. The tool hooks onto BOTH sides of the crossmember, giving you a more sturdy setup to work off of. The likelyhood of it slipping off is pretty low.
If you're using a C-clamp and it either fractures or slips off the crossmember, all of that tension will unload somewhere. More than likely into your hand or arm. At the very least it would severely **** up whatever tools are attached to the bolt when it goes.
Plenty of guys get away with doing it with C-clamps, but I'd rather use the right tools for the job and minimize the chances of getting hurt.
Look at Ty...I hate using my dude as an example, but he shattered his arm simply due to the fact that he was rushing and not using the proper safety stuff when he was changing his rear springs out.