Replaced two actuators and still not working properly.

[Bonestock]

I've replaced the mode door actuator and drivers side temp blend door. Did the recalibration procedure and nothing changed. I have the other two actuators for the recirc and passenger temp blend but I'm not putting them in until I know they're bad.

Anyone in the Knoxville area have Silverado, Tahoe etc with manual controls in the Knoxville area willing to let me swap with mine to see if that's my issue?

Gotta admit I'm losing love for this vehicle day by day.

 

[M1Gunner]

If you don't mind me asking, what's your issue? What made you condemn the actuators?

 

[Bonestock]

If you don't mind me asking, what's your issue? What made you condemn the actuators?

Don't mind at all. When I bought this burb the a/c didn't blow cold. Found the leak and it turned out to be the evaporator core. Pulled the entire dash out and replaced it. The recirc stopped working as soon as I got it back together. I charged the a/c and the rest worked for a week or so. Then the passenger side started acting up and with a day the drivers and then the mode. I bought a used hvac controller and it changed nothing and I returned it. I didn't think to try to recalibrate it though. That lead to the actuators

 

[M1Gunner]

Just my personal opinion but the chance that all the actuators failing basically at the same time is slim to none. I would lean towards the root cause being something else like the harness connector to the back of the HVAC module having loose terminals or something along those lines.

I would pull the bezel and HVAC module out from the dash and play with the settings and the terminals in the harness while it's still hooked up to the module to see if there's any effect.

It also looks like all the actuators also run though the right I/P fuse block. Make sure that is properly connected and has no loose terminals (may be easier to start here)

(With both of those connectors, it would also be a good idea to put some dielectric grease in the connectors and reinstall.)

Also if neither of those have any effect check grounds G200 and G203. Since you pulled the dash one of those maybe be loose or just have a bad connection.

 

[Bonestock]

Just my personal opinion but the chance that all the actuators failing basically at the same time is slim to none. I would lean towards the root cause being something else like the harness connector to the back of the HVAC module having loose terminals or something along those lines.

I would pull the bezel and HVAC module out from the dash and play with the settings and the terminals in the harness while it's still hooked up to the module to see if there's any effect.

It also looks like all the actuators also run though the right I/P fuse block. Make sure that is properly connected and has no loose terminals (may be easier to start here)

(With both of those connectors, it would also be a good idea to put some dielectric grease in the connectors and reinstall.)

Also if neither of those have any effect check grounds G200 and G203. Since you pulled the dash one of those maybe be loose or just have a bad connection.

That's what I thought. To ironic for them all to fail nearly simultaneously. I checked all the wires from the mode actuator to the control module. They were all good. It was getting dark and I was frustrated so I went inside and mixed a Moscow Mule and started this thread. I saved those pics and I'll study them and try to find those grounds. I check both grounds in pin A8 and B9 with the ground that connect to battery(it was disconnected at the time) and both checked out. Just Ohming the wires. I'll get on it after church.

 

[M1Gunner]

Just keep us posted man, we'll get ya squared away.

 

[Bonestock]

Just keep us posted man, we'll get ya squared away.

On my way home from church. I appreciate your help greatly. I'm an electrician by trade so this isn't completely foreign to me but a bit out of my realm. I'll get after as soon as I get home.

 

[Bonestock]

Checked those two grounds and they have excellent continuity to the negative battery terminal. I also checked the voltages to ground for while the vehicle was running and as I adjusted the temp and mode the voltages remained the same within .01. I also checked the voltage of the mode control to mode signal. Again voltage remained the same during this.

 

[inmypassatlife]

the switch? I had all my windows go out because the contacts on one of the master switches went out. I replaced both rear motor assemblies before I even thought of checking the switch

 

[swathdiver]

David, you could have solved this months ago with a Tech2. Each actuator has its own trouble code when problems arise. Then each actuator has several symptom codes that describes exactly the problem with that actuator.

For example, my truck throws a code B0413 Symptom 61. This is for my driver's side air temperature actuator and symptom 61 means that it gets stuck. So that describes a mechanical problem with the part. The other two are shorts to ground or battery. Now with my Tech2, I can reset the doors and then with the Tech2, move the actuator to the cool position and it works fine for a few weeks until the door moves just enough out of position to need to drop the temperature to maintain the comfort that I like. Now that it is getting cooler out, we'll get that thing changed out soon.

Anyhow, you need to know exactly which one to change and why it is broken.

B0228 is for the recirculate actuator.
B0413 is for the drivers air temperature actuator.
B0423 is for the passenger air temperature actuator.
B0433 is for the auxiliary air temperature actuator.
B3779 is for the mode actuator.
B3782 is for the auxiliary mode actuator.

Symptom 2 after any of these means it has shorted to ground.

Symptom 5 after any of these means it has shorted to battery or open.

Symptom 61 after any of these means it has stuck.