Rocket Man's 02 Denali Build Thread AKA "THE BEAST"

[iamdub]

Ok guys so I just had an idea. Since I can’t seem to get shims (washers) installed between the flexplate and the converter and Im sure the distance will again be more than 3/16”, can’t I shim the flexplate by installing them between the flexplate and crank? I’m thinking Ill just use 1/16” shims and that will make the flexplate to converter measurement fall between 1/8- 3/16. That should be the same effect correct?

Would this affect starter engagement? Why can't you get shims between the flexplate and converter?

 

[Rocket Man]

Would this affect starter engagement? Why can't you get shims between the flexplate and converter?

Not sure about the starter but I doubt it would affect it. The starter teeth are about 5/8” wide and the flexplate is only about 3/8” so I believe there is a lot of engagement there. The design of the converter pads make it impossible to slide the washers in and get a bolt through. There’s 3 holes at each pad, for different applications I guess, and the ones I use are in a terrible place when trying to access from where I have to in the starter location. If you look at this picture, the position when installing the bolt is the hole to the bottom left. I have to slide the washer in from the left and every time, it falls out the bottom. I tried using a magnet, etc. In the second pic you can see with the flexplate in, you can't see what you're doing. It's all by feel and I found it impossible. the washer kept falling out, or else I thought it was in but when I turned the crank to get to another bolt, a washer would fall down. I was also scared that if I couldn't verify there were washers at all 3 bolts it would tear itself apart.

 

[iamdub]

That IS tight. Can you super glue the washers to the converter or flex plate before you put the trans back in? I don't see it being thick enough to affect the spacing, but you can put a thick bead around the perimeter and have none on the mating surfaces if that would make you feel better about it. I would do it this way just to be 100% sure.

 

[Rocket Man]

That IS tight. Can you super glue the washers to the converter or flex plate before you put the trans back in? I don't see it being thick enough to affect the spacing, but you can put a thick bead around the perimeter and have none on the mating surfaces if that would make you feel better about it. I would do it this way just to be 100% sure.

I’ve thought about that and also Im reaching out to TCI to ask their opinion about spacing the flexplate from the crank. If they say that’s ok I’ll do it otherwise I guess I’ll try superglue.

 

[Tonyrodz]

That IS tight. Can you super glue the washers to the converter or flex plate before you put the trans back in? I don't see it being thick enough to affect the spacing, but you can put a thick bead around the perimeter and have none on the mating surfaces if that would make you feel better about it. I would do it this way just to be 100% sure.

I had thought about suggesting silicone or rtv to keep those washers in place.

 

[randeez]

i would try and keep them between the flexplate and converter.
they do make single piece spacers for the flexplate but they are a lot thicker than you need, they have a concentric hole with the crank and need to be fully seated - id worry about using washers there and needing them all to be within .000X of variance. just glue them, get a nut and bolt and tighten each down tight till it dries and remove after

 

[Rocket Man]

Yeah TCI said the shims need to be between the flex plate and converter so I’ll try silicone to hold them.

 

[Rocket Man]

Justin at FTI returned my call today to discuss the issue regarding the converter to flexplate and converter to input shaft issue. He said he didn’t take pictures but I can just look into the converter and see it definately was never in contact with the input shaft and with a 3/16” gap between the converter and flexplate pads there’s no way it could have, unless my endplay was so sloppy that my crank would have been destroyed. He agreed with me that the input shaft was probably like that before Performabuilt ever built the trans, it does look to me like somebody was banging on it with a hammer. So I don’t need to worry about replacing my thrust bearing/ main bearing. I do think it’s possible the pump came disengaged due to having in excess of a 3/16” gap between the flexplate and converter so I will definately address that this time around. Either the pump failed because of that or something else just broke in the trans due to the tremendous amount of torque applied by The Beast. Oh, and FTI charged me $200 for tear down, inspection and return shipping so that escapade cost me a total of $250 for peace of mind to know my converter is fine. Justin said it still looks like new inside with zero wear and tear.

 

[Rocket Man]

I removed the flexplate so I could get a better crankshaft endplay measurement. It seems that when I was trying to measure with it installed, it was flexing when I pulled on it so the measurement was exaggerated. Today I got .0035 which is well within specs of .0015-.0078.

 

[Rocket Man]

Also replaced the DJM rear passenger endlink which had broken awhile back. You can see the weld had no *********** on the failed part.