Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

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yates ™

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It’s a parallel 4-link. My travel from fully aired up to aired out is over 10” so a panhard is out of the question. This frame was built by one of the biggest shops in Texas, All Star Customs, that has been doing these forever so I doubt it was something to correct a problem. Shops like this come up with their own designs all the time. IDK, it works good. The only problem I had was due to the fact I only had 4 valves so the air would transfer from side to side and it would lean a bit but I’m looking forward to having control of all 4 corners now.
In my mind, again I could be wrong, this is negating the advantages of a parallel 4-link as you lose the ability for each side to move independently. A triangulated 4-link makes much more sense or even 3-link.
 

NathanJax

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Your truck came stock with drums in the back??? I didn't know that was a thing for the NNBS trucks :think: Weird.

Yeah it sucks. I might do the swap later on...


It’s a parallel 4-link. My travel from fully aired up to aired out is over 10” so a panhard is out of the question

Mine is over 10" as well, and I have the KP 4 link/Cantilever system with watts link with no issues. we actually had to cut the lip of my fenders to get my wheels to fit. You can't fit a finger between the rims and the bed, but it doesn't move left/right so no issues...
 
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Rocket Man

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Yeah it sucks. I might do the swap later on...




Mine is over 10" as well, and I have the KP 4 link/Cantilever system with watts link with no issues. we actually had to cut the lip of my fenders to get my wheels to fit. You can't fit a finger between the rims and the bed, but it doesn't move left/right so no issues...
Awesome. Mine works fine, I also have about a finger between my bed and rims. It doesn’t move side to side either, and I’m not going to reinvent it at this point. ;)
 
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Rocket Man

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Yeah it sucks. I might do the swap later on...




Mine is over 10" as well, and I have the KP 4 link/Cantilever system with watts link with no issues. we actually had to cut the lip of my fenders to get my wheels to fit. You can't fit a finger between the rims and the bed, but it doesn't move left/right so no issues...
Oh and BTW, if yours moves 10” then mine must be closer to 14” because it’s a stock floor body drop so it’s down about 4” more than yours! :cool: When you have a new frame built from the engine mounts back or cut big notches in your floorboard you can compare apples to apples because that’s the only way to get as low as me. You still have a helluva lot of work to get there....:D
 

yates ™

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Oh and BTW, if yours moves 10” then mine must be closer to 14” because it’s a stock floor body drop so it’s down about 4” more than yours! :cool: When you have a new frame built from the engine mounts back or cut big notches in your floorboard you can compare apples to apples because that’s the only way to get as low as me. You still have a helluva lot of work to get there....:D
If we measure from the top of the roof I still win. :beer:
 

NathanJax

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Awesome. Mine works fine, I also have about a finger between my bed and rims. It doesn’t move side to side either, and I’m not going to reinvent it at this point. ;)

If it works for you... don't fix it!!!

I'm just worried about getting new wheels. Since it was tubbed for 28's, and there's a bunch of NNBS running big wheels, it makes me want to get some soooooo bad.
 

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