Rocket Man's 2008 Bagged CC Silverado Build AKA "THE MACHINE"

[Sam Harris]

It looks like the headers and y-pipe will fit so I bought them. He will ship them Monday.

Took you long enough..

 

[Bear77]

Took you long enough..

X2


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[Tonyrodz]

Took you long enough..

Lol, I knew which way it was going too!

 

[Rocket Man]

Took you long enough..

X2


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Lol, I knew which way it was going too!

Spent my stimulus check before I even got it lmao.

 

[Sam Harris]

Spent my stimulus check before I even got it lmao.

That’s the ticket!

 

[Rocket Man]

Got the rear brakes done but the fronts have been nothing but trouble. First, it took me an hour just to remove the driver brake line due to the fact it’s in an impossible to get to spot. The upper control arm is in the way. Then the new Wilwood adapter won’t thread to the truck hard line. I’ll have to buy new adapters from a local place. Well, I figured I’d bolt up a caliper and rotor and check clearance. It’s a stock knuckle I think but the ball joint area hits the back side of the rotor so it won’t seat on the axle all the way. I determined I need 1/4-5/16” so the plan is to use 1/4” wheel spacers between the rotor and axle flange and then grind a little on the control arm. I’ll have to use spacers on the caliper bracket too. It’s not the preferred method but I don’t know of any other. I can’t even switch to Wilwoods 14.25” rotors, same problem. The stock 13” barely clears. I don’t want my tires any closer to the fenders but I think 1/4” will be ok.

 

[Bear77]

That definitely can’t be correct...


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[Rocket Man]

That definitely can’t be correct...


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It’s correct. The front has about 14” of travel with zero camber change from aired all the way up to fully aired out. The control arms and steering is all custom made for bagged trucks. You have to remember what this suspension is asked to do.

 

[Sam Harris]

Got the rear brakes done but the fronts have been nothing but trouble. First, it took me an hour just to remove the driver brake line due to the fact it’s in an impossible to get to spot. The upper control arm is in the way. Then the new Wilwood adapter won’t thread to the truck hard line. I’ll have to buy new adapters from a local place. Well, I figured I’d bolt up a caliper and rotor and check clearance. It’s a stock knuckle I think but the ball joint area hits the back side of the rotor so it won’t seat on the axle all the way. I determined I need 1/4-5/16” so the plan is to use 1/4” wheel spacers between the rotor and axle flange and then grind a little on the control arm. I’ll have to use spacers on the caliper bracket too. It’s not the preferred method but I don’t know of any other. I can’t even switch to Wilwoods 14.25” rotors, same problem. The stock 13” barely clears. I don’t want my tires any closer to the fenders but I think 1/4” will be ok.

View attachment 243550 View attachment 243551

Suck

 

[Rocket Man]

So apparently it’s a thing with this setup- the ball joints are flipped. There’s a company called Little Shop that makes a spindle spacer kit for this. Problem is it’s 1/2” which means the wheels are pushed out 1/2”. I’m going to see if I can add the 1/4” spacers and massage the ball joint cup a little bit. If that doesn’t work I’ll buy the kit and have some material machined off the inside of the wheel hubs. I know from previous experience with the engineer at intro that it’s ok to remove 1/4” from the wheel hub. It’s just time and money, right?