Rough Country

[Smasal]

You're right man. Thanks for the info

 

[SunlitComet]

I don't think you can ever really tell because the shock you just probably replaced are worn so it is always hard to tell. You just really can't do a proper comparison to others shock that way unless you try several new ones at once. I do not bounce or get to stiff when going in or out of driveway curbs for sure. Speed bumps are nicer too. When I fix my engine there is some rough terrain of rocky road trails on the hills nearby that I can really test the inertial valve technology on as I have not done any off-roading yet either(have a mechanical issue in the transfer case that does not fully depress the electric switch that powers the front actuator) I have the standard performer IAS. They have two extreme models for lifted unit that have the IAS system. One of them has an external reservoir.

 

[Smasal]

I wish I had your knowledge Sunlit. That all looks foreign to me. So I guess I am gonna crank the keys a bit tomorrow and then invest in some bigger tires. then try looking into shocks along with a more formal and functioning lift. My only hang up is I am still not a fan of the wheels I have haha. I love the stock 16's but the 17's look a little big and arent as attractive as the newer 17s my dad has on his silverdao.

 

[SunlitComet]

I hate mine too. someone put Denali wheels on it and they suck. Would like to get some blacked out steels or alloys with all black hardware and caps.

 

['93Yuke]

Sunlitcomet, how did you find out about your transfer case doing that? Mine isn't engaging my 4wd in hi range, but it does in Lo range. would that be the same problem? or would that just be a faulty actuator switch? also, how difficult is it to replace a C-clip on the front axle shaft?

 

[SunlitComet]

I had replaced the front actuator in case the gas chamber was blown already and still nothing. So I put an ammeter in place of the fuse that would power the actuator when shifting the t-case. In each case weather going to 4hi or 4lo there was a brief but obvious amp draw while the tcase was shifting and when it finished the shift the amp draw was gone. It was acting like a nuetral /backup light switch on and old tranny where when you put it in reverse the reverse light comes on but goes out by the time the shift is complete. Because of this I replaced the ball switch on the t-case and still the same. It is all theory until it is opened up But I think it is the sector cam on the shift shaft (or maybe a worn bushing or shaft) that is responsible for depressing that ball that my be damaged or worn. I could just put put 12 volts on actuator after shifting and see for sure if it locks up but I am confident that is what is going based on the t-case wire and mechanical diagram. in your case I think it might be the same issue possibly showing that the 4hi was switched on and off a whole lot.

---------- Post added at 12:07 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:02 PM ----------

And the front IFS systems don't have c-clips.

 

['93Yuke]

yeah, whoever had this yukon before I did absolutely dogged it, but luckily its still in pretty decent shape, other than some worn drivetrain parts. I have replaced/fixed about 80% of everything that was wrong, and i'm down to little things like this that I need to fix. If the IFS doesnt have C-clips, then why would my axle shaft be sliding out of my front differential? when I replaced my CV axles I noticed the problem.. I could slide the axle shaft right out as if it weren't connected, or broken. Any tips/Ideas? my mechanic told me it was a broken c-clip.. Also, I will probably replace the actuator switch and see if that might fix my problem first. "fingers crossed"

 

[SunlitComet]

There are supposed to come out like that because the do not have c-clips to hold them in. If you damaged a flange you would have to tear apart the whole case for which you could not separate because clips are holding the axles together that are getting in the way of separating the case hence making it impossible to install c-clips in the way you do in the rear. If you had to drive with a cv shaft removed wire tie the flange holes to a nearby part to keep it front falling out.

Getting that?

It helps also if your front IFS jammed since you can break the cv shaft off and remove the front drive shaft if needed to get out of a rut.


Tell you mechanic to study more. Not every vehicle has a solid front axle.

 

['93Yuke]

ok, so how do I get it to stay in the differential? Is there some way it will snap back in there or what?

 

[SunlitComet]

Make sure your cv shafts are installed. Seriously, Normally a hammer puller is required to get the shaft out because the splines will mesh tightly. If you are saying the output flanges are popping out or just come out with no resistance I wold look the see if the pinion gears are intact.