Rust on fenders?

[jonnyjonnyjonny]

Where is the truck located? Is it where they like to use road salt?

Looks pretty clean, especially for a ‘86, but I live in Iowa where they apply salt rather liberally in the winter.

If I were looking at it, I’d look closely along the chrome trim on the fender arches for any sign of bubbling paint. I’d look inside the wheel wells along with underneath along the rocker panels.

Hey! It's located in Canada, over near Vancouver. Looks pretty clean for a Canadian vehicle, I will make sure to keep my eye out, it's a 96 with 291,000km on it.

 

[B-train]

Agree with @wjburken If it's not rusty underneath, the door seams look good, etc then you probably have a clean truck.

The rust does appear to be surface related from years of driving with no mud flaps. Sand it down, prime it with rust converting primer, and coats with matched paint, or use black bed coating for a thicker, tougher repair. Then put mud flaps on it.

 

[Hoesgottaeat2]

Another '96 owner here. Mine's brutally beat up by salt in our region. Just about to hit 204k miles. Engine runs strong. No known issues with the fuel injection system in the nearly 20 years I or a former owner have owned it. Former owner is a close friend of mine and I did his repairs for him when he owned it.
The body on that '96 you're looking at appears to be decent from the pics.
Be prepared to replace things like brake lines, fuel lines, etc if it has surface rust.
I'd also look at the body mounts to verify integrity.
But at first glance you likely have a solid candidate to purchase IMO.

 

[YukonGTmaster]

Hey! It's located in Canada, over near Vancouver. Looks pretty clean for a Canadian vehicle, I will make sure to keep my eye out, it's a 96 with 291,000km on it.

Hi, I am from the Vancouver area. I had bad rust on my '97, but that is mostly because I took it to the land of salt and gravel in Alberta. If it has spent it's life on the B.C West Coast, it may only be surface rust. I would sandblast the area, apply Corroseal, smooth, prime, and paint. Or just run it and enjoy, if it does not bother you.

 

[strutaeng]

You can open the throttle body blade and try inspecting with a small mirror or borescope to see if the injectors were upgraded.

The upgraded MPFI have 2 wires running along with fuel hose. The actual injector is on the tip instead of it in the "spider body." See previous post by @LordWayback for photos.

Spider injectors/fpr going bad will give lean, rich or both codes, depending on what fails. Also will give misfires and crank-no-fire conditions if fpr or injector leaks down when you shut off the engine and floods the cylinder.

 

[LordWayback]

You can open the throttle body blade and try inspecting with a small mirror or borescope to see if the injectors were upgraded.

The upgraded MPFI have 2 wires running along with fuel hose. The actual injector is on the tip instead of it in the "spider body." See previous post by @LordWayback for photos.

Spider injectors/fpr going bad will give lean, rich or both codes, depending on what fails. Also will give misfires and crank-no-fire conditions if fpr or injector leaks down when you shut off the engine and floods the cylinder.

Or it lights the intake on fire I have seen one burn down

 

[LordWayback]

You can open the throttle body blade and try inspecting with a small mirror or borescope to see if the injectors were upgraded.

The upgraded MPFI have 2 wires running along with fuel hose. The actual injector is on the tip instead of it in the "spider body." See previous post by @LordWayback for photos.

Spider injectors/fpr going bad will give lean, rich or both codes, depending on what fails. Also will give misfires and crank-no-fire conditions if fpr or injector leaks down when you shut off the engine and floods the cylinder.

Continuing on the spider injection thing if you have a fuel pressure test gauge hook straight to the fuel rail schrader valve and there’s a PSI range if memory serves you need 53 psi at the rail to fire the injectors so leaking fuel lines (rust zones) failing fuel pump or filter/ bad pump harness among other things may mis-diag a spider injector

 

[wjburken]

Continuing on the spider injection thing if you have a fuel pressure test gauge hook straight to the fuel rail schrader valve and there’s a PSI range if memory serves you need 53 psi at the rail to fire the injectors so leaking fuel lines (rust zones) failing fuel pump or filter/ bad pump harness among other things may mis-diag a spider injector

Had a 1997 with spider injectors with absolutely no issues after 200K miles.

 

[waveryd]

I had a '96 Suburban that I drove daily for 20 years and 600, 000 miles. I never had any fuel injection issues at all. A friend owns the truck now and it still runs just fine. I never gave that truck a chance to fail, it was on the road every day. They are good vehicles. Simple to work on and parts are cheap.

 

[pwerwgn]

Hey guys I wanted to buy this 96 Yukon and it looks to have rust on the quarter panels (?) on both sides. The seller says it is only surface rust. Is there an easy fix for this?

If I do go to buy it, what should I look for in terms of rust?

(Disclaimer: The owner did say that there was no rust underneath)

View attachment 416282

View attachment 416283

Open all doors and check behind the rubber seals at the bottom.