service brake system

[cashflow50]

03' yukie 4.8L

My mechanic recently changed my brake master cylinder and starter. He also cleaned the TB cause it was kina idling rough when he fired the engine up. The next day i decided not to drive the truck..boy was i lucky. When I got home from work, I started the engine up while parked under my carport and it started fine. I took it for a test drive and about a mile into the drive, the DIC started trippin with the ABS, brake and Traction Control lights along with the "service brake sytem" message lights coming on. The door locks started unlocking and locking and chimes from the vehicle stated going on anf off also. The DIC also said reduced engine power soon after that. Before turning into a nearby parking lot, the engine turned off while on drive. I tried starting it up again and the starter just cranked and cranked with no start. I then waited a couple minutes then tried again. While cranking, I stepped on the pedal to try to get it to start...It barely started, but got it to start eventually. I revved it and revved it until I knew for sure that the engine had good idle. I proceed home and again about a 1/4 of a mile the engine shut off while in drive. Thank god I got it home safely with several tries to fire the engine up.



The next day I went to start the truck up again and it fired up fine. I let it idle for about 20-30 minutes. Curiously I turned the engine off to see if I could start it up again. When I tried starting it up...it cranks for about a second then no juice...Its like it just cuts off. Meaning while i turn the key without letting go..it cranks then just stops. What could be the problem.. Would it be the TPS or a matter of changing the wheel bearing as stated in this thread? Please Help.


ps I also could feel a pulse when I pressed on the brakes.



del

 

[mechwarrior75]

sounds like your having electrical issues. I would start by making sure the battery contacts are good and clean

 

[cashflow50]

the battery is practically new, but just to make sure I checked the contacts of corrosion and its clean. I also check for tightness on the posts. My mech just went home after installing the ignition switch. He thought that was causing the engine to die out. He thinks Prolly bad connectors. Now it cant even start. I feel like were throwing parts at my yuke and still didnt resolve the problem.

What could be the problem. Now engine does not fire up. Funny thing is that when I crank the ignition without letting go, it just cuts off the power. Its should just crank and crank until you let go right? My mech is now baffled. Went from a "service brake system" with all the cluster brake lighting up to cannot start up. He doesnt know where to start.

Another funny observation. It starts right up with ease when its cold..meaning the next morning. Its when I just start up the engine and then start again it wont crank. WTF!! need help on this guys.

 

[cashflow50]

anyone?

 

[cashflow50]

Update on this issue...

I couldn't seem to get any answers, so I went ahead and researched on my own. I went to the local parts store and bought me some electrical cleaner spray (dont know if thats the exact name). First off, I removed the neg battery wire off the battery. I went in and unplugged all electrical connectors I could see in the engine bay. I then sprayed and cleaned the connectors and applied the electrical contact grease after drying them off. I also unplugged the PCM connectors and sprayed them as well. After spraying all of the electrical connectors, I went and worked on the grounds. Sanded and cleaned them. Next day I went to fire the beast up and low and behold...the beast has awaken.

 

[Vette66]

Congrats!!!

 

[cashflow50]

yah I didnt know how the service brake system had anything to do with the reduced engine power message. I guess it was a bad ground or bad connectors.

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

More than likely it was caused when the throttle body was cleaned.. the throttle needed to be relearned and the PCM was entering failsafe mode when it saw numbers it wasn't used to. By disconnecting the PCM you would have cleared the memory and forced it to relearn the throttle

 

[cashflow50]

More than likely it was caused when the throttle body was cleaned.. the throttle needed to be relearned and the PCM was entering failsafe mode when it saw numbers it wasn't used to. By disconnecting the PCM you would have cleared the memory and forced it to relearn the throttle

thanks for the response. How would you go about disconnecting the PCM? Can you do this just by disconnecting the Battery? I'm asking this, because I did disconnect the PCM plugs (with the battery disconnected though).

 

[BRUTUS_T_HOG]

Disconnecting the battery is the right way. Don't ever do plug and play with modules especially modules with more than one connector.

I like to disconnect the battery and then open the door and press the brake to discharge any residual voltage.