Shorted out a computer in the dash?

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WalleyeMikeIII

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BCM and ECM are both under the center area of the dash?
No, ECM is under the hood.

BCM is under the steering column, according to this diagram on the GM Upfitter site, see pg 7-891: https://www.gmupfitter.com/wp-conte...oe_Electrical_Body_Builder_SM_U_2021OCT08.pdf

Same document makes reference to "Instrument Panel Control Module", but I was unable to find a location of it in the document. It may be integrated directly w/ the Cluster.

Note, there are references in the doc that the BCM and ECM both communicate w/ the IPCM.
 
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Doubeleive

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It isn't under warranty anymore. I am just trying to find out what computer or relay in this area might have been shorted out and could be causing the Speedometer/cluster to not turn on. Anyone have any ideas?
on a 21+ not completely sure but the radio amp should be there and maybe onstar but it is a whole new platform so no telling. they have made the most buss more integrated with the other equipment and instrument cluster so if the amp got ruined it might cause a whole host of issue's (just speculation)
did you check the coolant level? it sure looks like coolant and if it is you won't be able to stop it unless you pinch off the heater hoses completely or replace the heater core and that's going to be a bundle if the dealer does it.
you must be over mileage? a salvage title would not prevent any warranty unless you blatantly told the dealer it was salvage they don't have any record of that stuff
 
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bobenson

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Freon (realistically in this vehicle the A/C refrigerant is R-1234yf) is not liquid when not under pressure, it is a gas...your A/C system may have some dye in it to detect leaks, this is usually either green or reacts to UV (Black) light.
Coolant in the GM Vehicles is pinkish/red, and tends to a more rust red color as it ages...this looks like what you have taken a picture of.

If the road hazard damaged the A/C line (containing the R-1234yf) under the vehicle that services the rear evaporator, the A/C system will become discharged, and the compressor should quit running to prevent damage to it via the pressure switch. This action would not cause a coolant leak inside the cabin.

Now, if the road hazard damaged the "heater lines" going to the rear A/C unit, I would expect a loss of coolant in the engine cooling system and this would be a critical failure. Depending on how big the leak is, and how much coolant you lost, you could potentially overheat the engine; possibly doing irreparable damage to the engine. Normally you would see this rise in engine temp on the gauge cluster, but you siad that the cluster has been rendered inoperable. I still don't think this, in and of itself would cause a coolant leak inside the cabin, unless the coolant line was pinched, or the pressure in the system became so high (due to the overheat), that it blew a hole in the heater core or one of the lines running to it.

I can't recall whether the BCM controls the gauge cluster or whether that is direct from the ECM. Could be either, so not sure, but if you have coolant leaking onto modules under the console, you definitely have an issue.

Since warranty is over (although the powertrain warranty is 5yrs/60k miles), I would follow the advice above. Quit trying to diagnose yourself, stop tearing apart, take to the dealer, have them assess the damages, and give an estimate, and if caused by road hazard, contact your insurance for a claim. Else, you are going to foot the bill for the whole works.
IT looks like you were right, its is coolant, must be the heater core. I am not trying to repair this vehicle at the moment, but get it started so it can be moved. Do you know what "computer" or fuse near the heater core or under the center of the dash that might have been shorted out? Whatever happened under there with the coolant getting all over it must have shorted something where the Speedometer/cluster doesn't turn on, and the car won't fully start. Any idea?
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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IT looks like you were right, its is coolant, must be the heater core. I am not trying to repair this vehicle at the moment, but get it started so it can be moved. Do you know what "computer" or fuse near the heater core or under the center of the dash that might have been shorted out? Whatever happened under there with the coolant getting all over it must have shorted something where the Speedometer/cluster doesn't turn on, and the car won't fully start. Any idea?
The info I gave you in Post 11 is all I could find w/ a public internet search.

Perhaps call your dealer and ask them this question; they may answer it.

Realistically, you are likely not going to be able to just swap in whatever computer you think is fried; any of these modules that do much (The BCM and IPCM) have Vehicle Specific Firmware on them; and I am pretty sure you need the software file from GM to program them to replace them (or some 3rd parties can get this; but I don't think joe user can).

Does it crank? It is possible maybe the throttle is shorted? I know when I went to the car wash once, shortly after my vehicle was purchased, they put the floor mat back over the throttle pedal, and all it would do is crank...took me about 5 min to figure that out...So, maybe if the electronics in the gas pedal are wet, that could be an issue too.
 
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bobenson

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The info I gave you in Post 11 is all I could find w/ a public internet search.

Perhaps call your dealer and ask them this question; they may answer it.

Realistically, you are likely not going to be able to just swap in whatever computer you think is fried; any of these modules that do much (The BCM and IPCM) have Vehicle Specific Firmware on them; and I am pretty sure you need the software file from GM to program them to replace them (or some 3rd parties can get this; but I don't think joe user can).

Does it crank? It is possible maybe the throttle is shorted? I know when I went to the car wash once, shortly after my vehicle was purchased, they put the floor mat back over the throttle pedal, and all it would do is crank...took me about 5 min to figure that out...So, maybe if the electronics in the gas pedal are wet, that could be an issue too.
I ordered an ECM and tested it with the same result. Car cranks and almost starts, then shuts off. The ECM I switched out was on the far drivers side under the kick panel. Is the BCM closer to the center of the dash? That is where all the coolant leaked out. That is where I think something got shorted out.
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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I ordered an ECM and tested it with the same result. Car cranks and almost starts, then shuts off. The ECM I switched out was on the far drivers side under the kick panel. Is the BCM closer to the center of the dash? That is where all the coolant leaked out. That is where I think something got shorted out.
BCM is shown in the diagream in Post #11 as under the steering column.

Did the Gas Pedal get wet?
 

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Not sure if this has been discussed or not -- have you considered having it towed?
 

DuraYuk

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I ordered an ECM and tested it with the same result. Car cranks and almost starts, then shuts off. The ECM I switched out was on the far drivers side under the kick panel. Is the BCM closer to the center of the dash? That is where all the coolant leaked out. That is where I think something got shorted out.
Um you have to program these components for the vehicle. It's not as simple as just plugging in a ECM or BCM.

You need a professional to diagnose and repair. Not just throwing parts at it.
 

WalleyeMikeIII

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I feel like the OP isn’t telling the whole story. 2022, but not in warranty? I’m suspect…Powertrain warranty is 5/60k. Not saying it’s not possible that the powertrain is up, but I doubt it…something awry here.
 

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