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he used a shorter spring but kept stock "shock" compressing it more and putting more weight in the "shock"
If he bent and/or made new ride height sensors in the rear it would in turn lower it. The new height sensor would keep the vehicle from reaching the factory set height. We did this on my dads 2007 Escalade until he went with a full kit. Although i don’t see it being a full 3” “drop”, maybe 2 at the most. It is tho a cheap easy way to level a vehicle with autoride out
This is the instructions that this person performed to gain comfort
"I ordered 3" lowering springs, I really didn't need to lower it 3 inches but I also knew the shock would take some of the load so if it went down 2 1/2 inches, it would be level anyway. These kits often come with lowering shackles for the shocks....I did NOT get them because I wanted the shocks to take some of the weight....If I would have lowered the shocks, it would have lowered the full 3 inches. Remember the Auto-Leveling system would compensate for any lowering of the rear by inflating the shocks with more air....So, to counter-act this, I made a bracket from flat metal and bolted it to the existing bracket; then I drilled a hole 1" lower than the original, thereby lowering the rear Magride sensor 1" (THIS WORKED) This is the outcome: It lowered the rear 1 3/4 inches and it placed more weight on the shocks, it rides incredibly smooth in the rear. I was almost thinking about using 1" lowering springs on the front with a one inch lift kit just to get rid of the factory springs (haven't done this yet)."
olyelr, i am not following. You say it was raised a bit by the aid shocks pumped up, but if you modified the sensor pin to think it was at level height but was not at full capacity then wouldn't that give some decreased stiffness?