small lift

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86mk7

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I was wondering wich blocks to run.1.5 or 2 inch blocks in the rear. Don't Realy want to go much bigger. Looking to run a set of 285s in a mud terrain or poss an all terrain. I don't want to cut or trim the front fenders or lower valance.

Also need to know what ubolts to run. Mite just be easier to run to the part store and measure 2 inches longer. Lol.

Also do I need a tapers block. This is on a 4 door obs Yukon
 

bowtiefreak

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I would do the 1.5....but .5" is not much. Yes 2" longer U bolts. I get them from truckspring.com.

You do not need tapered blocks. For more info on that research U joint phasing.
 
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86mk7

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I just don't want to put a 2 inch block in and when I do the front have to max it out to match. I'm not sure what ujoint phasing is but I've done enough 4x4 lifts to know that the opinion meds to face up to the tcase. Only way to achieve that would be to use a taperd block or brewed the spring perches.

I may even stiff have a set of stock Ford blocks packed away some were. I'll need to cut off the bump stop adapter off the side of them but I do believe there steel. Mite be cast tho.
 

bowtiefreak

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If you have the time, crank the front and figure out what the best size block would be for the back, then order it.

Adding that tapered block will cause a vibration most likely. U joint phasing for a stadard drive shaft is simple. you want each U joint (tcase and pinion to have equal and opposite angles. if those angles are off a vibration happens.

What you are refering to is when utilizing a CV shaft (dual cardan) that has TWO U joints coming off the tcase. In that case you want to be within 1-2* in the pinion angle to the driveshaft angle. That is when tapered blocks, shims or perch relocating is done.
 

the big blue bus

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i got 2inch rcx block on mine. its taperd and came with new u bolts as well with lock nuts. good kit for 60 bucks that i paid. hardest part was cuttin the old ubolts off
 

bowtiefreak

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I will bring up another point, the longer the driveshaft (wheel base) is the less the angles change as the lifting is done. Example, a 2 door is worse than a suburban with the same amount of lift. I wonder how I know that?

Anyway, that is why when only lifting 1-2" with a tapered block the difference is minimal. The degree of the taper is a big factor also.

I had to rotate my pinion 12* with 6" lift springs to match the CV shaft. A standard U joint is only good for about 32* of angle I think, please correct me if I am wrong.
 

yukondoit

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Dont want to threadjack but would longer shocks be needed for a 1-2 inch block? Can I get away with running the shocks I have on there already?
I'm in the same boat as the op, wanting a small lift for my 94 2 door.
 

bowtiefreak

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I would advise it. If you have the ability to get the truck off the ground find out how much travel you have in the shocks
 

SunlitComet

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I don't think you will probably have any issues as long as you do not do any heavy hopping but like bowtie said check your travel.
 

yukondoit

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Thanks.. I'm in the process of replacing my driver side ubolts and figured it would be a good time to install a small lift while I'm messing with it...
 

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