[SOLVED] 2003 Tahoe - Slow or no crank, no start (already tried a lot of the easy stuff)

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HI All!

I have acquired a non-running 2003 Tahoe z71 with the 5.3. It is having some issues. I purchased it not running as a challenge to get running, and, after all of the easy things, I am stumped.

About the truck:
5.3, some new parts, transmission has been recently done, prior owner hooked up a manual shift transfer case, and the wiring looks OK for it, kinda. No front axels or front transfer case, so essentially two wheel drive. Story I got on it was it was going down the road and stopped. Sometimes it would run, and sometimes it would not. (What I was told). I have, personally, never heard it run.

The truck turns over a bit... slowly. Very slowly. Maybe it does one turn of the starter and then locks up and the starter starts clicking. Turn the key again, and it does the same thing. Eventually, it won't turn at all.

Initially, I thought it was the battery, so I switched it with one that worked out of my other Yukon. No change.

I cleaned all of the grounds and connections. No change. (The grounds I cleaned were the one behind the front bumper, the one on the driver's side of the block, the one on the rear of the passenger side of the block, the grounds under the driver's door, and I replaced the braided ground strap).

I kinda was stumped why it would only turn over once, so I took off the serpentine belt and tried again - no change. (Tensioner was kinda tight, but still turned). No other pulley was stuck and all turned freely. When turning it over without the belts there was no change.

So, I did the logical thing, and went to the junk yard and got new-ish, clean, battery cables (both positive and negative) and a known good starter. Paid too much and installed those.

For three times, the truck turned over a few times somewhat slow, but regularly. Then, it went back to slow cranking only once and then clicking.

I figured that maybe it was the starter, so I went out and purchased a brand new starter. No change with a brand new starter.

Checked fuel pressure and it was kinda low (but my gauge is a cheap one that always reads low). 53 PSI (which is what gets my other Yukon going so I think the gauge I use always reads a little low).

I decided to check two cylinders to see if an injector was leaking, and on the second plug I lost some threads (so helicoiling is in my future), so decided not to pull more - all dry of the two I checked.

I am not sure how to get this turning to do other diagnostics. (On the three times that it did turn over I checked with my scanner and I am getting RPM so I think my crank position sensor is fine at least).

So, after replacing the starter, the lines, the battery, (and the ignition switch), cleaning all the ground surfaces and putting another new one on the rear of the block... still not spinning over.

My best guess would be stuck injector, but I can turn the engine by hand at the crank bolt with a wrench.

What could be the cause of my slow/no crank?

Thanks in advance!
 

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Does the battery test good using a load tester?

Has a voltage drop test been done between the battery negative and the block (and starter body), and a voltage drop between the battery positive and the starter solenoid lug?


Ivan posted this one recently, although right near the end of the video ( HERE ) it's pretty obvious what's going on:

 
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Does the battery test good using a load tester?

Has a voltage drop test been done between the battery negative and the block (and starter body), and a voltage drop between the battery positive and the starter solenoid lug?


Ivan posted this one recently, although right near the end of the video ( HERE ) it's pretty obvious what's going on:

Not as of yet (I've never done one before but will watch the videos to see if I can)
 

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many times a battery might test good but when a load is introduced it fails…good luck with yours

Bill
 

afpj

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Has a scan for codes been done? Flex fuel or not? Is Yukon flex fuel? That will help determine if fuel pressure is comparable. How many miles? Is there actual Spark at the plugs? Fuel from the injectors? Crank/cam sensors ever been replaced?
What has been done to it? "Some new parts" doesn't help. What is meant by " transmission recently done". The more details about the vehicle, the better the responses to your query.
What was the purpose of a manual shift transfer case with no front axle? I'm missing something, but I ain't that smart either. The smarter people here will need more details to help.
 
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I have scanned for some codes. It has two BCM codes, one for a power drain (B1480, B2615). I also have a code for P1518 throttle actuator circuit. (That was a new one last night). But neither of them would stop the starter from spinning.

I do have a wonder if a failed alternator would cause a power drain at start. I almost thought I heard a slight buzzing from it.
 
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Measured resistance from battery ground to engine, within spec. .3 at the alternator case and bracket.

I pulled the injectors and put them under fuel pressure to see if any were leaking but none leaking yet (was wondering perhaps if a leaky injector had filled a cylinder… does not appear so)

Keeping on diagnosing but I’m starting to wonder if there’s a bind on the engine. It will crank with a wrench on the crank bolt. Feels like it’s making compression and goes through full rotations.
 

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If fuel has been energized this whole time then cylinders full of fuel? All the attempts at starting its spraying fuel into the cylinders. Compression checked? Pull plugs. Never seen or heard of plugs stripping out. Not saying it isn't out there. Does the engine look real rusty? Been under water? Sounds from what u have discussed, it has jumped time. So heads off, and timing chain out situation. But as stated above, need input! Johnny 5 needs input!!!!
 
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If fuel has been energized this whole time then cylinders full of fuel? All the attempts at starting its spraying fuel into the cylinders. Compression checked? Pull plugs. Never seen or heard of plugs stripping out. Not saying it isn't out there. Does the engine look real rusty? Been under water? Sounds from what u have discussed, it has jumped time. So heads off, and timing chain out situation. But as stated above, need input! Johnny 5 needs input!!!!
I might go ahead and try to pull all the plugs but it’s almost like someone used a breaker bar to torque the plugs or something. Never seen anything like it myself.

Honestly, it’s not the best vehicle but I’m only in it $1500 or so. Body is decent and frame is great. So I might try my hand at an engine swap for the first time ever.

The weird thing is that it turned over normally a few times when I replaced all the battery cables. And then right back to not being able to turn fast. That’s what led me to believe it might work. But timing jumping is where I am increasingly coming to.

If it is timing I might keep it as a little project or cut my losses and scrap it. Unsure which way I’ll go.

If there are any other diagnostic ideas I would love to hear them. Is there a way to check timing without pulling off everything?
 
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Ended up solving it…. Kinda. I had ordered a new battery ground when I got the truck and figured what the heck, throw it on, and it started. Runs relatively decent.

The only problem now is when I turn on the AC it goes into reduced power mode. But I can work with that… over time.

Thank you all!!
 

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Whenever it'll try to start and then you get that clicking, it's almost always something to do with the wiring.

I have a tractor with a bad crimp on the battery cable going to the starter. If I push on the wire just right, it'll always start. If not, it'll click.

I think what happens is there's a tiny deposit made with the high rush of current that adds additional resistance. I know that sounds farfetched, but in these cases wiggling the connector, or holding it just right, will get it to crank. I've had this happen on other vehicles where it has power with key on, you go to start and it's dead after that until you mess with the cables.

One test would've been a volt meter on the starter, to see if it cuts out or not. This would help determine if the issue is the starter, battery, or wiring.
 

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