SOLVED PAGE 5: Shudder/shake/vibration when hitting bumps at highway speeds

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96-2D-Hoe

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(I have not replaced the idler arm)
Could this be the culprit? Might want to start with that.

My old 96 truck has always shuddered when I hit a bump, but mine seems to travel from the back to the front. I always blamed it on the cranked up torsion bars but I don't know that's really why it does it. Worse when I have rear tire pressure high.

Replaced all my steering components last year including the steering box. I did not want to revisit it any time soon and the parts were not too expensive. Literally did everything apart from the LCA bushings and lower ball joint as that's not really something I can do in my apartment parking spot.
 
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clandr1

clandr1

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Could this be the culprit? Might want to start with that.

My old 96 truck has always shuddered when I hit a bump, but mine seems to travel from the back to the front. I always blamed it on the cranked up torsion bars but I don't know that's really why it does it. Worse when I have rear tire pressure high.

Replaced all my steering components last year including the steering box. I did not want to revisit it any time soon and the parts were not too expensive. Literally did everything apart from the LCA bushings and lower ball joint as that's not really something I can do in my apartment parking spot.

Symptoms of a bad idler arm are wandering or loose steering which I don’t have, so I’m not sure it’s related. Probably a good idea to do it anyway regardless, though.
 

96-2D-Hoe

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It's definitely done a few miles. I guess it all depends where your shudder is, in the steering or the suspension/body. Best of luck.
 

exp500

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Do a 2 man inspection of front and rear suspension.Also check body mounts. Long pry bar, one wheel at a time jacked a little. then front end jacked hanging at stops, rear jacked hanging at stops. Pay close attention to control arm bushings front and rear. Look for any movement outside of normal plane of movement. Such as when a tie rod wears, it will lift or shift instead of travel in normal direction. Pittmann arm/Idler arm Known trouble spots on these trucks, some people never see the wear/movement. When a problem child is in the shop, get a second set of eyes on it, along with a thorough test at various positions (turning left/turning right/ full turn on stops.)Touch and wiggle everything.A 1/8 inch movement in steering suspension is alot. Post if you have questions on your findings.
 
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clandr1

clandr1

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Do a 2 man inspection of front and rear suspension.Also check body mounts. Long pry bar, one wheel at a time jacked a little. then front end jacked hanging at stops, rear jacked hanging at stops. Pay close attention to control arm bushings front and rear. Look for any movement outside of normal plane of movement. Such as when a tie rod wears, it will lift or shift instead of travel in normal direction. Pittmann arm/Idler arm Known trouble spots on these trucks, some people never see the wear/movement. When a problem child is in the shop, get a second set of eyes on it, along with a thorough test at various positions (turning left/turning right/ full turn on stops.)Touch and wiggle everything.A 1/8 inch movement in steering suspension is alot. Post if you have questions on your findings.

Thanks, I'll see about having a friend over to help me one of these weekends. In the meantime, I decided that @96-2D-Hoe is right - I've ordered an AC Delco Professional idler arm assembly and will replace that as a next step. It needs to be done, and I'll do it first to see if it has any impact on my issue.
 
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clandr1

clandr1

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Update: I replaced the idler arm assembly yesterday morning with no change. It needed to be done anyway since it was the factory original.

I just finished replacing the sway bar bushings/links in the front but won't hit the highway until later this afternoon. I'll see if this offers any improvement, but I'm not hopeful. I had them on hand and figured the originals probably needed to be replaced anyhow.

While the wheels were off today I grabbed a pry bar and inspected the passenger side upper ball joint since the vibration seems to be worse on that side, and it does appear there is a little movement between the upper control arm and the steering knuckle. The tie rods are solid, and difficult to move so they seem to be in good shape.

Here is where I need some input. The way I see it, I have three options on what to do next:

1. replace complete upper and lower control arm assemblies on the front
Pros: should result in a completely tight front end suspension that should be worry free for another 5-10 years
Cons: most labor intensive and expensive option

2. replace upper control arm, and lower ball joint
Pros: likely will solve my problem and is a mid point solution from a cost/labor perspective
Cons: if lower control arm bushings that attach to the frame are worn, I may still have a little slop in the suspension

3. replace upper and lower ball joints only
Pros: lowest priced option
Cons: only an interim solution if the control arm bushings are worn, could be a huge pain in the ass to get the ball joints replaced

Bear in mind I plan on doing this work myself, and cost really isn't an issue - I'd rather do it right/do it once and have it fixed for the long term.

I appreciate anyone's input/insight who has been through this before.
 

wjburken

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I would replace the whole arm assemblies. Might be less labor intensive that pressing the old ball joints out and pressing new ones in. No matter which route you take, you’ll need to get it aligned. With new arms, you have new bushings and new ball joints.
 
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clandr1

clandr1

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OEM upper and lower control arms are showing $902 on GM Parts Direct. I went to Amazon and looked at the AC Delco Advantage, AC Delco Professional, and MOOG replacement control arms, but the reviews have me scared that they aren't built very well.

As much as I hate to let go of $1,000, if it means it'll be done right with quality parts that will last for years, I'm willing to pony up the cash.
 

wjburken

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OEM upper and lower control arms are showing $902 on GM Parts Direct. I went to Amazon and looked at the AC Delco Advantage, AC Delco Professional, and MOOG replacement control arms, but the reviews have me scared that they aren't built very well.

As much as I hate to let go of $1,000, if it means it'll be done right with quality parts that will last for years, I'm willing to pony up the cash.
Stay away from AC Delco Advantage and Professional lines. They are crap. AC Delco OEM is good.

Moog Problem Solver lone has been good to me. Others may have other thoughts.
 

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