Speaker/ amp recommendations

[chaingun427]

I'm in the middle of a sound overhaul on my Tahoe, so far I've got a kenwood excelon head unit which I love, and I've managed to integrate the " lux" bose amp to keep factory chimes and such, but even though it sounds pretty great for factory speakers, it's lacking in overall punch, and not being able to fade the sound is a little annoying.

At this point, my plan is to move the bose amps front outputs to the rear speakers and rear head unit output, and let it control the rear doors and d pillars, and front center channel if I decided to add it later. That would allow me to keep the factory chimes and such, while adding a dedicated amp and component set to the fronts, like the jbl gto620.

At the moment I'm stuck trying to decide whether to run another component set in the rear, or to just get another coaxial set, and coaxial 3.5s for the d pillars.

Alternatively I could use the bose amps outputs as high level inputs to 4 way amp as well. I'm considering trying to keep the center bose sub and add a stronger woofer to give deeper sound when I'm not running the 12s, or possibly build /buy a stealth box for an 8", though I've been told the component set may be all I need for midrange punch

All thoughts suggestions and criticism are welcome

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[yugrus]

I'm in the middle of a sound overhaul on my Tahoe, so far I've got a kenwood excelon head unit which I love, and I've managed to integrate the " lux" bose amp to keep factory chimes and such, but even though it sounds pretty great for factory speakers, it's lacking in overall punch, and not being able to fade the sound is a little annoying.

At this point, my plan is to move the bose amps front outputs to the rear speakers and rear head unit output, and let it control the rear doors and d pillars, and front center channel if I decided to add it later. That would allow me to keep the factory chimes and such, while adding a dedicated amp and component set to the fronts, like the jbl gto620.

At the moment I'm stuck trying to decide whether to run another component set in the rear, or to just get another coaxial set, and coaxial 3.5s for the d pillars.

Alternatively I could use the bose amps outputs as high level inputs to 4 way amp as well. I'm considering trying to keep the center bose sub and add a stronger woofer to give deeper sound when I'm not running the 12s, or possibly build /buy a stealth box for an 8", though I've been told the component set may be all I need for midrange punch

All thoughts suggestions and criticism are welcome

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I'd make the truck soundproof first. Dynamat, closed-cell foam, mass-loaded vinyl. I did that few years ago. About 100lbs of weight later, I can tell you that your Tahoe without the above is just a rattle can. You can try and implement different things sound-wise, but unless it is soundproof, it wouldn't matter much, if your hearing is good enough...

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[chaingun427]

I'd make the truck soundproof first. Dynamat, closed-cell foam, mass-loaded vinyl. I did that few years ago. About 100lbs of weight later, I can tell you that your Tahoe without the above is just a rattle can. You can try and implement different things sound-wise, but unless it is soundproof, it wouldn't matter much, if your hearing is good enough...

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That's on the list, but not until the temps get under triple digits lol

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[bigdog9191999]

seems like you would get much further ahead to just ditch all the stock stuff and go all aftermarket, there are adapters and kits to keep chimes and wheel controls and such, the sound quality would be better and more customizable overall. either bypass the stock amps and use the factory wiring or just run it all and be 100%

 

[chaingun427]

seems like you would get much further ahead to just ditch all the stock stuff and go all aftermarket, there are adapters and kits to keep chimes and wheel controls and such, the sound quality would be better and more customizable overall. either bypass the stock amps and use the factory wiring or just run it all and be 100%

I've tried 3 different interface harnesses, from different manufacturers, and none have a decent factory sounding chime, turn signal etc, which is why I'm intending to keep the bose amp for the rear speakers at this time. Finally settled on the idatalink maestro rr2 for the programmable interface from my phone for the swc

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[Joseph Garcia]

Sounds like you need to make a decision on whether good sounding tunes, or good sounding chimes, is more important to you.

I second Bigdog's recommendation. Get rid of the Bose components, and install a complete set of aftermarket audio equipment. Use a 4-channel amp with minimum 75 watts rms power per channel for your door and post speakers, and use a separate monoblock amp with a minimum of 500 watts rms for a separate sub. Or, you could use a 5-channel amp with similar wattage specs to power all speakers, and have only one amp. This setup won't set off car alarms 2 blocks away, but it will give you great sounding tunes in your truck.

 

[chaingun427]

Sounds like you need to make a decision on whether good sounding tunes, or good sounding chimes, is more important to you.

I second Bigdog's recommendation. Get rid of the Bose components, and install a complete set of aftermarket audio equipment. Use a 4-channel amp with minimum 75 watts rms power per channel for your door and post speakers, and use a separate monoblock amp with a minimum of 500 watts rms for a separate sub. Or, you could use a 5-channel amp with similar wattage specs to power all speakers, and have only one amp. This setup won't set off car alarms 2 blocks away, but it will give you great sounding tunes in your truck.

Have a dd m.80 pushing two alpine type s if I want thump lol thinking of either installing the amp in the jack well, or under the middle bench.

I don't see any reason the two systems have to be exclusive of each other, Im mostly looking for recommendations on a 2 channel and whether it's worth running a second component set in the rear, or if a coaxial will do what I want there

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