Spend Jungle Jack's Money

[Jungle Jack]

Greetings,
Around 7 months ago I purchased my 2007 Denali after a reasonably through search. Given the realities of "plague living", I did not inspect it nearly as much as I would have. While I have/had every expectation of a 13 year old truck with 160,000 miles needing reconditioning, I feel I have reached the is the juice worth the squeeze territory. The service history is killer on this truck and so on.

While the engine runs and runs quite well, more oil is probably on the garage floor than in the oil pan owing to a RMS leak. Of greater concern to me is the transmission where after owning it for a few months, I am now getting the occasional P0751 code where the truck does not shift into 2nd.

That whole 30 MPH with the engine screaming ain't no fun! Even more so when it happens on an absurd stretch of HWY 101 where there was/is a giant landslide/detour (Last Chance Grade) with massively backed up traffic. Thank goodness I suppose it did finally go into second that day.

So at this point, I really cannot decide whether to get the powertrain where it needs to be knowing it is rust free and so on or to cut bait and run. 98% of the time the transmission is just fine. Problem is we live in a pretty scenic and rugged area where just getting to I-5 is a bit of an adventure.
Any and all advice would be hugely appreciated,
J

 

[thompsoj22]

Your at the "turnaround" to the top of everest. Either turnaround and never summit and live with the regret of quitting or continue to the top knowing that the summit is only halfway and most people perish on the way down. Vehicle "restoration" is a never ending "trek", As you repair one component another will/may fail and it can be sooooo frustrating. However you are driving a $70k vehicle in current dollars and if you stick with it you can and will have an extreemly reliable and comfortable "road limo" for a fraction of the new cost. This is a kinda dumb analogy but it works for me! Your in the right forum for all kinds of advice!

 

[swathdiver]

Greetings,
Around 7 months ago I purchased my 2007 Denali after a reasonably through search. Given the realities of "plague living", I did not inspect it nearly as much as I would have. While I have/had every expectation of a 13 year old truck with 160,000 miles needing reconditioning, I feel I have reached the is the juice worth the squeeze territory. The service history is killer on this truck and so on.

While the engine runs and runs quite well, more oil is probably on the garage floor than in the oil pan owing to a RMS leak. Of greater concern to me is the transmission where after owning it for a few months, I am now getting the occasional P0751 code where the truck does not shift into 2nd.

That whole 30 MPH with the engine screaming ain't no fun! Even more so when it happens on an absurd stretch of HWY 101 where there was/is a giant landslide/detour (Last Chance Grade) with massively backed up traffic. Thank goodness I suppose it did finally go into second that day.

So at this point, I really cannot decide whether to get the powertrain where it needs to be knowing it is rust free and so on or to cut bait and run. 98% of the time the transmission is just fine. Problem is we live in a pretty scenic and rugged area where just getting to I-5 is a bit of an adventure.
Any and all advice would be hugely appreciated,
J

John, You can rebuild those solenoids on your kitchen table without taking the transmission out of the truck for about $100 plus fluid.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072C63HM...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

Check out my "Which would you pick?" post and help me spend my money now! LOL

 

[donjetman]

I feel you pain.

Bought our 2007 in Oct of 2018 w/130k miles, used car lot, no mx records for $10,500 including TTL. I did all of the following because we LOVE the way it drives/rides, and need it to be reliable transportation when making the 1k mile drive ea way between our homes in TX and the CO mtns.

We now have 167k miles on it. I've done 100% of the labor. No regrets.

Stuff that was broke, or has broke, and I fixed:
Rear main seal & cover – Dorman 635-518 - $43
Brake pedal stop light switch - SL1000 - $19
Gas cap – ACDelco GT330 - $19
Vapor cannister purge valve on intake – ACDelco# 214-1680 - $18
Trans cooler line 1 – ACDelco 15779543 - $16
Trans cooler lines 2 – ACDelco 25999420 - $56
Trans cooler clips- ACDelco# 24205103 - $10
Trans cooler gasket - $7
Front lower plastic cowl - $31
Valve cover driverside – GM# 12570427 - $117
Oil pan gasket – GM# 12612350 - $36
Oil pickup o-ring – Felpro 72401 or GM 12584922 - $9
Exhaust Manifold clamp, back driver side – APDTY# 028218 - $30
Exhaust manifold clamps, frt driver side, back pass – APDTY#028253- $67
Front pass side door handle – 735-6526 - $49
Performed TSB 10-06-01-008M, solvent Gunk Motor Medic - $5
Fixed rear driver side door handle/lock adjustment - $0
Replaced rear power liftgate latch/lock mechanism-$210
Total = $742

Normal MX:
air filter, NAPA 22487 - $9
cleaned MAP sensor and throttle body - $1
brake fluid - $6
PS fluid, Amsoil ATF - $6
Frt diff gear oil w/3 pts Amsoil 75-90w - $21
Rear diff gear oil w/4.2 pts Amsoil 75-90w & gasket - $40
Transfer Case ATF w/3 pts Amsoil (ATL) ATF - $16
Transmission fluid, 10 qts, w/Dexron VI, $75
Tranny filter – PTC# F247 - $34
Cleaned old spark plugs and reinstalled - $1
4 oil changes, 7 qts, 7 qts, 11 qts 11 qts - $170
4 oil filter changes - $35
1 bypass filter change - $35
4 lube jobs - $5
4 new tpms sensors, AC Delco #13598771 - $66
Install sensors - $20
Changed transfer case fluid w/3 pts Amsoil (ATL) ATF - $16
Installed new upper & lower rad hoses $70
Installed new heater hoses - $50
New 5 yr/150,000 mile coolant - $50
Rear brake job, calipers, rotors, pads, hoses - $372
Total = $1042

Preventative MX:
Torque Converter – Precision P4646 - $218
Tranny front pump seal – GM# 24237531 - $30
Tranny Input shaft seal – GM# 24219390 - $10
AFM Deflector – gm#12639759 - $8
Main serpentine belt – 6K935 - $19
tensioner - $32
idler pulley - $22
idler pulley - $16
AC belt – 4K378 - $16
tensioner - $28
Starter – 6757N - $60
Alternator (160 amp) – 8301N - $101
Frt sway bar end link poly bushings - $15
Frt sway bar bushings – Moog# K200222 - $7
Rear sway bar bushings – Moog K6408 - $8
Cleaned pass side valve cover inside and out - $2
3 UOA - $84
New water pump - $85
New 180* thermostat – Motorad# 523-180 - $29
New heater hose w/metal y fitting, Dorman# 626-553/NAPA# 827-5730-1 $37
Total = $827

Mod(s):
Catch can, line, fittings - $40
Installed an engine oil bypass filtration system - $150
New front Husky floor mats - #53101 - $86
Cool-It Thermo-Tec Express Sleeve, #14030, on both engine oil bypass filtration system hoses. - $22
New front center floor console – 22860866 - $91
6.2L emblems(4) - $25
GruvenParts metal T-connectors $80ea+ shipping and tax - $175
Dorman# 259-200 Cabin Air Filter kit - $25
Viair 1 gal oil tank, Viair# 91014(11 qt oil sump capacity now) - $55
Oil cooler, Hayden# 696 – $57
Various AN fittings, hose, and clamps - $100
Total = $826

So we have about $14k in it now. The only deferred mx problems that are the rear auto leveling shocks and compressor - $550. They've been bad since we purchased the vehicle, but since we don't tow or carry a bunch of people in it, I'm not in a hurry to fix them. It still rides like a dream.

Good luck

 

[donjetman]

Here's some threads I did w/pics about the work mentioned above:

Rear Main Seal
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/rear-main-seal-job-pan-etc-07-yukon-denali-6-2.108334/

Oil Consumption, Valve Covers
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/thr...tor-oil-consumption-tsb-10-60-10-008m.108493/

Trans Filter Change
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/6l80-filter-change.108378/

Very Dirty Spark Plugs
https://www.tahoeyukonforum.com/threads/sparkies-no-beno.108579/

I have more?

 

[Bill 1960]

I don’t have an answer, I’ll just share my experience. I bought this one with 60k miles, rust free. Thinking I’d have a pass on major repairs for some time.

All the suspension was shot from the border patrol abusing it off road. The trans had to be replaced 3 months after I got it. Right now I’m spending the better part of a grand on a new dash to replace the cracked one and the crappy radio.

So, I’m past the point of no return so to speak... and I’ll drive my money back out of it hopefully. But: if I had a crystal ball at the beginning of this journey I’d spend all that extra money on a pristine one owner civvy truck with all the maintenance records.

 

[Geotrash]

Greetings,
Around 7 months ago I purchased my 2007 Denali after a reasonably through search. Given the realities of "plague living", I did not inspect it nearly as much as I would have. While I have/had every expectation of a 13 year old truck with 160,000 miles needing reconditioning, I feel I have reached the is the juice worth the squeeze territory. The service history is killer on this truck and so on.

While the engine runs and runs quite well, more oil is probably on the garage floor than in the oil pan owing to a RMS leak. Of greater concern to me is the transmission where after owning it for a few months, I am now getting the occasional P0751 code where the truck does not shift into 2nd.

That whole 30 MPH with the engine screaming ain't no fun! Even more so when it happens on an absurd stretch of HWY 101 where there was/is a giant landslide/detour (Last Chance Grade) with massively backed up traffic. Thank goodness I suppose it did finally go into second that day.

So at this point, I really cannot decide whether to get the powertrain where it needs to be knowing it is rust free and so on or to cut bait and run. 98% of the time the transmission is just fine. Problem is we live in a pretty scenic and rugged area where just getting to I-5 is a bit of an adventure.
Any and all advice would be hugely appreciated,
J

It will cost about $700 to have someone else R&R the transmission to get at that rear main seal. Before you do though, are you sure it's the rear main that's leaking? There's an oil cooler block-off plate just above the oil filter that is more prone to leaking and often presents just like a rear main seal leak. You can also do the R&R yourself in a weekend if you have the tools and skills.

That said, I just had my rear main seal done on my 2012 because I was having a new torque converter put in as part of my plan for making it a solid towing rig. As James says though, the shifting problem you're describing is usually caused by a solenoid leaking, and can be fairly easily fixed.

As the proud owner of both 2007 and 2012 XL Denali's, they are hands-down the best, most enjoyable vehicles to drive I have ever owned. I've owned new BMWs, Land Rovers, Acuras, Isuzus, and many more, and these trucks are the best. I bought both of my Denali's used (at 92K and 192K), do 90% of my own work on mine, and have found that spending time on these forums and getting to know these trucks inside and out, affords a level of confidence in their reliability that would otherwise cost me $70-80K to have in a new one.

Naturally, part of it is that I enjoy the work. But part of it is also that I want to actually retire someday, and spending a *** of cash on a new truck just doesn't make good financial sense. And my wife and I make good money.

Moral of the story: if your body and frame are clean and rust-free on yours, you can keep one of these trucks going almost indefinitely, for far less than a new one would cost. Parts are cheap and plentiful, as are the advice and knowledge to work on them.

 

[OR VietVet]

If you OWN, no payments, the platform you want and it performs great when all is good and it meets your needs, throw money at it. In the long run, even if you do an engine or transmission, you will be happier. I know I am.

 

[wsteele]

I have owned my 2007 Yukon SLT since new. Major stuff along the way was a transmission at 76K, rings and pistons (along with AFM pressure relief valve deflector, updated valve cover, etc., GM stepped up with the parts and my dealer did me a good turn on the labor, this all related to the oil consumption TSB) at 95K, new front struts at about 105K (autoride/autolevel), new rear shocks and compressor 112K.

Had I bought this truck at 73K miles on the ODO, I suppose I would be wondering if I had bought a lemon.

Truth be told, even if I had bought this truck at 73K miles on it and paid out of pocket for the TSB work, it still would be one of the cheapest ways for me to have exactly what I need in a truck. No way could I have had all the years and miles I have put on it since 73K miles less expensively by buying a later model truck.

I get the rationalization some people use of "convenience" when they buy a new car/truck every 3-5 years. Convenience is worth different amounts to different people. If you set convenience aside, there is no comparison in cost per mile driving a newer car/truck, to fixing (or having fixed) an otherwise solid vehicle when things crop up. Depreciation is always going to be more on a newer model, than repair costs on an older one, at least with domestic vehicles.

On the notion of swapping to a similar truck, so you have less "problems", the devil you know is almost always better than the devil you don't. At least after you have gotten the important stuff fixed.

My wife is on me fairly regularly to "just go buy a new truck". We are retired and in a position where I can afford a new truck and not have it make a difference in any other decision we might make financially. The truth is, I love the truck I have. It drives like a dream, and when something REALLY expensive crops up, is still super cheap to own compared to anything newer.

 

[iamdub]

Greetings,
Around 7 months ago I purchased my 2007 Denali after a reasonably through search. Given the realities of "plague living", I did not inspect it nearly as much as I would have. While I have/had every expectation of a 13 year old truck with 160,000 miles needing reconditioning, I feel I have reached the is the juice worth the squeeze territory. The service history is killer on this truck and so on.

While the engine runs and runs quite well, more oil is probably on the garage floor than in the oil pan owing to a RMS leak. Of greater concern to me is the transmission where after owning it for a few months, I am now getting the occasional P0751 code where the truck does not shift into 2nd.

That whole 30 MPH with the engine screaming ain't no fun! Even more so when it happens on an absurd stretch of HWY 101 where there was/is a giant landslide/detour (Last Chance Grade) with massively backed up traffic. Thank goodness I suppose it did finally go into second that day.

So at this point, I really cannot decide whether to get the powertrain where it needs to be knowing it is rust free and so on or to cut bait and run. 98% of the time the transmission is just fine. Problem is we live in a pretty scenic and rugged area where just getting to I-5 is a bit of an adventure.
Any and all advice would be hugely appreciated,
J

John, You can rebuild those solenoids on your kitchen table without taking the transmission out of the truck for about $100 plus fluid.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072C63HM...olid=3MYY1OQK1UL4M&psc=1&ref_=lv_vv_lig_dp_it

^^^This. IMO, you owe it to your Denali and to yourself to throw the $100 and casual Saturday work at it. It's worth a shot.