Spring too close to Frame?

[iamdub]

Just squeezed under mine with it resting on the ground. I've never tried that since the drop but it lead to some interesting sights. I've only seen the location of the sway bar with the Tahoe hanging off the lift with the suspension at full droop.


This pic is kinda under the sway bar, looking upward and forward a bit. At ride height, the sway bar is almost next to the panhard mount, but clears it plenty. It may be closer to the shock than the panhard mount:




This one shows how close the curve of the bar is to the bolt head of the shock extender that's bolted to the factory shock mount. No evidence of contact despite my spirited cornering:



To give you an idea of how far the bar is shifted:



This is the money shot cuz it shows how on-point the DJM links are. The bar threads the needle in the gap between the panhard mount and shock while being parallel or nearly-parallel to the ground:

 

[Doug118]

I’ve had an issue with my DJM links from day 1. I even had to remove the bolt that bolts the shock bracket on and weld it to the axle. You can see in the bottom of the first picture, the sway bar practically sits over the bracket on the axle

 

[Doug118]

And yes the links are installed correctly

 

[iamdub]

And yes the links are installed correctly View attachment 238959View attachment 238960

That's cuz you have like 10" of drop on a kit designed for 3" to maybe 5" of drop at most.

 

[Doug118]

That's cuz you have like 10" of drop on a kit designed for 3" to maybe 5" of drop at most.

7” but okay. So you’re telling me if you dropped your truck 1” lower, it’ll hit?

 

[kbuskill]

That's cuz you have like 10" of drop on a kit designed for 3" to maybe 5" of drop at most.

7” but okay. So you’re telling me if you dropped your truck 1” lower, it’ll hit?

I have the same issue as Doug... sway bar rubbing the bolt. I think mine has found a happy compromise though... it doesn't appear to be getting any worse... lol

 

[BrainDead]

Just squeezed under mine with it resting on the ground. I've never tried that since the drop but it lead to some interesting sights. I've only seen the location of the sway bar with the Tahoe hanging off the lift with the suspension at full droop.


This pic is kinda under the sway bar, looking upward and forward a bit. At ride height, the sway bar is almost next to the panhard mount, but clears it plenty. It may be closer to the shock than the panhard mount:

View attachment 238532


This one shows how close the curve of the bar is to the bolt head of the shock extender that's bolted to the factory shock mount. No evidence of contact despite my spirited cornering:
View attachment 238533


To give you an idea of how far the bar is shifted:
View attachment 238534


This is the money shot cuz it shows how on-point the DJM links are. The bar threads the needle in the gap between the panhard mount and shock while being parallel or nearly-parallel to the ground:
View attachment 238535

Picked up the djm kit #2007, on a recommendation from the owner at djm, which has the sway bar end links and trailing arm relocation brackets, I'll get it installed this weekend and report back on the results.

Another question for the experienced peeps on here, how long are your links for the air ride shocks? I have adjusted mine twice, once to the belltech recommended length and a second time even shorter, but my compressor kicks on every time I start it up to raise the ass end and it rides like a truck. Is it just trial and error to adjust them where they need to be or is there an actual length that they should be at?

 

[kbuskill]

Picked up the djm kit #2007, on a recommendation from the owner at djm, which has the sway bar end links and trailing arm relocation brackets, I'll get it installed this weekend and report back on the results.

Another question for the experienced peeps on here, how long are your links for the air ride shocks? I have adjusted mine twice, once to the belltech recommended length and a second time even shorter, but my compressor kicks on every time I start it up to raise the ass end and it rides like a truck. Is it just trial and error to adjust them where they need to be or is there an actual length that they should be at?

It is normal for the auto leveling compressor (ALC) to kick on when you first start the truck, it is a self test. Also when you shut the truck off you should hear the exhaust valve on the ALC open and let some air out then close, then open and close... it will dump air out several times.

 

[iamdub]

Picked up the djm kit #2007, on a recommendation from the owner at djm, which has the sway bar end links and trailing arm relocation brackets, I'll get it installed this weekend and report back on the results.

Another question for the experienced peeps on here, how long are your links for the air ride shocks? I have adjusted mine twice, once to the belltech recommended length and a second time even shorter, but my compressor kicks on every time I start it up to raise the ass end and it rides like a truck. Is it just trial and error to adjust them where they need to be or is there an actual length that they should be at?

I don't know how much the ALC picks up the rear on a 100% stock vehicle when first started, but I wanna say it's only like 1/2". Whatever it is, you have to have your links at such a length that the sensor is at the angle that the ALC system is looking for. It's putting so much air in the bellows to lift the rear because it's trying to put it back to the height that it's programmed to. It doesn't know you have lowering coils, it thinks you're loaded down with weight and it's squashing the rear down. All that extra air makes it really firm. You just need shorter links. Every vehicle is different so it's difficult to give a one-size-fits-all length for the links. If it were me, I'd jack up the rear to the height it was before the drop and mark the sensors. Then, with the vehicle parked, at it's lowered height and air bellows not inflated, disconnect one end of the sensor links so you can see how much it needs to be shortened for the marks you made to line back up. Don't shorten it quite to that point because it's supposed to lift the rear a little (1/2"?) as part of the spring rate for stability. You can always shorten the link more if needed.

Before I lowered mine, I used a silver Sharpie to make a mark on all the sensors. After I'm done with lowering and am satisfied with where it's at, I'll make links that will realign those silver marks I made. I don't want the ALC "undropping" my Tahoe.

 

[iamdub]

7” but okay. So you’re telling me if you dropped your truck 1” lower, it’ll hit?

Mine's around 4"-4.25", so I'd have to drop it about 2" before it'd hit. Judging by my pic in post #31, 2" more drop would put the sway bar right around the top of the bolt head. With the suspension articulation and body movements from normal driving, it'd be sure to contact and rub at least the top of the bolt head. With 3" more drop than where I'm at currently, it'd likely pretty much rest against the bolt head and grind on it while driving.


How centered is your rear end? You may have to shift it a little to the right if it's still contacting, if that wouldn't be putting it too much off center or causing clearance issues elsewhere.